Caster camber adjustment after swap to steel ball joint carriers?
#1
Caster camber adjustment after swap to steel ball joint carriers?
Since the steel carriers require at least one new/replacement eccentric(s),
PN 928.341.466.00.
AND!
The caster is now changed to the inside eccentric and the camber is now set on the outside.
How do I baseline to wobble over to the local Hunter machine?
Any advice considered, correct advice will be appreciated a bit more...
TIA
Reason I'm asking is the book gives adjustment numbers like I had already settled the car and was parked next to an alignment shop...
PN 928.341.466.00.
AND!
The caster is now changed to the inside eccentric and the camber is now set on the outside.
How do I baseline to wobble over to the local Hunter machine?
Any advice considered, correct advice will be appreciated a bit more...
TIA
Reason I'm asking is the book gives adjustment numbers like I had already settled the car and was parked next to an alignment shop...
#2
John - I'm working on the same thing. I got a couple of laser levels from Harbor Freight and will come up with some kind of way to attach them to the brake discs. With the steering rack locked, I will make marks on the wall, ceiling and floor where the beam hits. Then, after installing the new steel carriers I will try to get the laser beams lined up with the marks I made. I hope it will be close enough to drive without chewing up the tires, settle the suspension, and take it in for alignment on the Hunter machine.
#3
I descided to train the local tire shop on the How To's on 928 alignment, took Captain Earls' write up to them and got a good alignment. But my toe, caster, camber and height was way out of wack. Drove like a pig too, but I didn't have too far to go either.
#4
Steve,
Thanks but I also have the problem of being jacked-up with the joints out but not replaced yet (good grief). I think I'll end up eyeballing and cruise the local loop for 50/60 miles to settle Pattycakes. More than likely I'll make the rounds of local collision repair shops and Insurance adjusters to see who provides the best 'First Time' alignment service for foerign/exotic car owners.
Shane,
Whip and carrot?
I need to train someone local as well Zacks 81' is showing a little wear, too!
Thanks but I also have the problem of being jacked-up with the joints out but not replaced yet (good grief). I think I'll end up eyeballing and cruise the local loop for 50/60 miles to settle Pattycakes. More than likely I'll make the rounds of local collision repair shops and Insurance adjusters to see who provides the best 'First Time' alignment service for foerign/exotic car owners.
Shane,
Whip and carrot?
I need to train someone local as well Zacks 81' is showing a little wear, too!
#5
Toe is probably the most dangerous thing to be badly out. Caster will show up as poor or excessive self centring after a turn. Toe is one thing you can get pretty close at home, with all the tips we have at our disposal.
I went through this with my Al->steel conversion. I dropped lines from hub and a couple of other reference points, before, corrected to these as best i could after, drove slowly until it settled, fixed toe in, went for alignment.
jp 83 Euro S AT 47k
I went through this with my Al->steel conversion. I dropped lines from hub and a couple of other reference points, before, corrected to these as best i could after, drove slowly until it settled, fixed toe in, went for alignment.
jp 83 Euro S AT 47k
#7
John,
Adjust the toe-in with my quick check method and settle the suspension and have the shop do the alignment. Don't worry about the caster camber for the settle/drive to shop.
http://members.rennlist.com/captearl...uickcheck.html
Adjust the toe-in with my quick check method and settle the suspension and have the shop do the alignment. Don't worry about the caster camber for the settle/drive to shop.
http://members.rennlist.com/captearl...uickcheck.html