DHS928

Can the LH unit plug be opened? I would like to get to the #18 pin with the plug in the unit. To check the Brown/Red ground wire from the injectors at the unit. I removed the three little screws but can not see how to get the plug part out.
Do I have to cut the heavy black wire cover to expose the wires?

Dan Serrato

LH plug

PorKen

Use a pick to remove the rubber gasket then a small screwdriver to prise the connector out of the cover

Mrmerlin

do not cut the sheathing

John Speake

The wires/pins won't be able to be released from the housing until you remove their retaining strip (usually white colour ) Then use a normal removal tool to release the connector you want.

FredR

Dan,

What exactly are you hoping to prove by pulling the connector?

You should be able to test for continuity between the earth contact on the injector plug and pin 18 without disassembling anything. When testing I use a male junior powertimer pin connected to some wire and insert the pin into the plug. The probes on a multi meter should also work fine but i like a nice solid connection as it were.

DHS928

So a mechanic suggested that if I could hook my noid light to the positive pole of the battery and also the #18 pin at the LH unit I could see if it blinked while cranking. That would eliminate the engine harness. But that looks like it will be very hard to do, he also suggested finding the wire as it comes out of the plug and cut the wire and check the noid light. But I really do not plan on cutting the wire then butt splicing it back together.
I did get the cheap Chi-com 40 amp relays today with an indicator light, this is with me trying to start the car.



All three show power while cranking.



Dan Serrato

DHS928

Well I would rather be lucky than good! So put in the three new relays today and when I ordered them Merlin had pointed out that my Temp II sending unit looked old so I ordered one off eBay at the same time I ordered the relays. It is a FACET brand, so I changed out the relays with the lighted ones and as the picture above shows all three relays were active while trying to start the car. But it still would not crank. So I figured I might as well put in the new Temp II sender, since it was delivered also. Well I thought I would try starting the car and it fired right up!!! Started it three or four times! So it idles fine and when I unplugged the Temp II sensor it kept running but the RPMs did change. Looking at the schematic it looks like one terminal goes to the LH unit and the other the EZK unit and I guess that will not let a cold engine start?
I also tested my AC bypass relay fix and it blows cold! GREAT now that its going down to 29 F tonight!
Dan Serrato

worf928