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Thanks Michael. That one I think is going to be slightly too long at just over 11 inches, plus the cables coming out the ends, needs more clearance than the space available. I was eyeing up this one: https://www.clarion.com/au/en/produc...tml#Fm-1Anchor as purely a sub amp. Half the cost and should fit with room to spare. I like the clarion products, as engineered for boats should more more robust than required in a car :-)
Let's get back to the outputs on the head unit. Which Xtrons model do you have? can you provide a link? I can look it up and let you know if you can drive your sub from that.
I believe I can. Haven't bought a stereo that didn't have an RCA sub output.
Regarding the speakers, we still need some specifications on the impedance. Can you provide links to the speakers that you have installed? That way I can look them up and provide guidance.
I bought the Kenwood KFC-1066R for the doors and the rear truck area. I believe the ones behind the front seats are Pioneers that were left behind by the previous owner, but they still work good. The tweeters were also replaced, but with something I don't remember.
One potential solution direction is that you power your speakers directly from the head unit and power your sub from the Boss 2-channel amp. In this scenario the left and right outputs on the amp would each power a voice coil in the sub. See the dual voice coil diagram below.
There's a couple of problems with that. For one, I don't want to mess with the wiring I've done so far, because I've had a long time problem finding out what was causing the noise from the stereo system. I actually got it to the point where I don't hear any engine noise, so I'd rather not bring that problem back. It's something I've thought about myself, seeing as the headunit's built in amp is basically doing nothing. The second problem is that I'm lazy and will always take the laziest route. I would rather run a single RCA cable to the back of the car to feed and amp, instead of rewiring my stereo... a 3rd time. It's probably a lot easier to run another AMP wiring from the existing AMP's location to turn on another AMP, and just take off the right panel by the headunit to quickly plug in that RCA cable and run it towards the back of the car. Considering where the subwoofer sits, I have easy access to power and ground since the battery sits right bellow it.
I guess the question is what AMP to get? Would be nice to keep the AMP inside the subwoofer, but what would fit? One of the reasons I got the cheap BOSS AMP was that it was cheap and also fits the stock location of the OEM AMP. If you're wondering I had rebuilt the box where the OEM AMP went because it was a soggy destroyed mess. I don't think another one of those would fit inside the subwoofer, so I would need something else. I don't like the idea of having AMP hardware exposed for anyone to see, plus I don't want to make holes in the car to mount it. Another location is where the rear wiper motor is, because there is some room there. So maybe a thin longer AMP would also work by sitting it where the rear wiper motor is. After some looking I found two AMP's that might work. This Sound Storm is long and thin, so it might fit the back of the car. It's a 2inch by 9inch, but I gotta measure to see where it might fit.
Go the AMP today and ran some wires but nothing hooked up. Tried test fitting it and almost fits..There's even a piece of metal sticking up that wedges this AMP just perfectly in there, except I can't connect the RCA cable to it. I could cut off the feet that stick out further than the body of the AMP which might do the trick, but that would mean cutting up the AMP. Gonna have to see if there's anything I can do, or another location I can put it. I can tell you the dimensions listed by Amazon weren't correct. There's this Pyle that might fit better and the connections are to the sides, but it's a 200 watt 4 channel, which I think means only 50 watts for my subwoofer. Not a huge fan of Pyle products but if this fits better, I don't have many better choices.
Decided to go with the Pyle AMP, since it fits. Works perfect now, but I still need to find a solution to bolt down the subwoofer. Best of all, you can't see the AMP or subwoofer. Think I'll weld an M10x1.50 nut to a horn bracket that I never used and use that to hold the speaker down.
Hi, got my amp (XC2110) and while it will fit in the orginal location initially have it connected on the seat just to test everything. Can't get the sub to make any noise. Pretty sure it's something to do with how I've connected the sub to the speaker outputs. I've the same wiring as in early Michael's post - orange, white, black with pink and silver, black with silver. Not clear which is live and ground. So I've tied every permutation and getting nothing. Popped the sub speaker out and connected to a battery just to confirm it's working, and yes the cone moves. Based on this appears that the and orange/white are one polarity and the black wires the other. But when I connect to the amp speaker outputs, nothing... how can I test a) whether the amp speaker out is providing a good signal? and b) whether my sub out is getting to the amp ok? Any other advice also appreciated.
Hi, got my amp (XC2110) and while it will fit in the orginal location initially have it connected on the seat just to test everything. Can't get the sub to make any noise. Pretty sure it's something to do with how I've connected the sub to the speaker outputs. I've the same wiring as in early Michael's post - orange, white, black with pink and silver, black with silver. Not clear which is live and ground. So I've tied every permutation and getting nothing. Popped the sub speaker out and connected to a battery just to confirm it's working, and yes the cone moves. Based on this appears that the and orange/white are one polarity and the black wires the other. But when I connect to the amp speaker outputs, nothing... how can I test a) whether the amp speaker out is providing a good signal? and b) whether my sub out is getting to the amp ok? Any other advice also appreciated.
When I wired it I used the left channel to connect from the headunit's subwoofer RCA. Then I connected the left output to the inputs but with the input + and - intertwined. I treated it like a mono amp, even though it could do stereo.
Hi, got my amp (XC2110) and while it will fit in the orginal location initially have it connected on the seat just to test everything. Can't get the sub to make any noise. Pretty sure it's something to do with how I've connected the sub to the speaker outputs. I've the same wiring as in early Michael's post - orange, white, black with pink and silver, black with silver. Not clear which is live and ground. So I've tied every permutation and getting nothing. Popped the sub speaker out and connected to a battery just to confirm it's working, and yes the cone moves. Based on this appears that the and orange/white are one polarity and the black wires the other. But when I connect to the amp speaker outputs, nothing... how can I test a) whether the amp speaker out is providing a good signal? and b) whether my sub out is getting to the amp ok? Any other advice also appreciated.
you have a mono amp. I suggest you look at the config options pic from my first post and set the wiring up for the third configuration mono 1ohm. This will require you change the way the leads on speaker are wired to match the picture.
Have rewired the sub and tested and works a treat. Thank-you Michael. Next task has been to tidy up the mess the PO left in the old amp location. Needing some advice, see attached pic for reference.
Item 1. Seems to have no power, whether ignition is on or not. I was expecting this to power up with ignition, was I correct?
Item 2: Full time 12v, regardless of ignition position. This is what I was expecting (ignore the loop that been added, it's superfluous).
Item 3: Perhaps the circle not in the best place, but chasing the wire back, this starts with the blue wire which is connected to antenna output on the head unit. I will remove the fuse loop, and disconnect the ground from this (it's doing nothing as it's not connected at the plug!)
My amp is the Clarion XC2110. It has A) 12v power input (red), B) 12v switched power in (blue) and C) ground (black). A clearly goes to item 2. C to item 3 (ground to grounding cable). I had thought I needed to connect B to 1, but with no power on this wire there's no point. If I connect B to 3 (blue wire only) this everything works as it should, but is it a problem that I don't have power at 1 (i.e. is this telling me the PO has done something bad upstream)? If not I just blank this off and be happy.
An update to close this out. I capped the unpowered red cable and left it to its own future. The XC2110 powers the bose sub really nicely and works well with the SQR46 running the front and rears. It is a tight fit and due to the positioning of its own mounting brackets there is only one spot you can put it in and still access the chassis mount points used by the original amp - any other position and you can't access the screws for this with the amp attached to the mount. I did make a thin MDF plate to attach it into the orginal amp mounting plate. Was the easiest thing to give me flexibility of placement and super easy to make another if I stuffed it up. Can fully recommend this bose sub, a real life hack for a sub in the 928 that just fits perfectly into an empty space :-)
07-05-2023, 04:38 PM
