knuckles

1978 928
5 speed
Silver Metallic (as far as I can tell)
Slick top
9288200942

Came with:
- extra phone dial wheels with summer tires. Phone dials with winter tires on the car.
- 85-86 928 S leather front seats (8-way power) and rear seat leather uppers/backs
- APC A1C racing seats (already sold)
- carpets and floormats

Missing:
- keys (came with a Red key, fits ignition and doors, but will not turn. Also included a few small black keys, one opens the rear centre console)
- original drivers seat
- various interior parts (door trim, visors, radio)
- battery ground cable and battery

Underhood seems complete and well maintained.
Body is straight.
Paint really isn't bad. Suspect it spend most of it's life stored indoors.

Currently going thru cleaning and mechanical checks. A little concerned about the charred fuel pump fuse.

knuckles

My first question: Easier/quicker to rekey ignition/locks or order a key from Porsche ($120CDN)?

Knuckles

Landseer

I've had porsche rekey on VIN. 928 key guy at HQ had recently retired. Took 2 tries and several months. And it is completely dependent on current locks being originals.

Rekey is a pretty involved project that requires precision, patience and a stash of parts. Risky in that you are drilling out tiny steel retaining pins set in soft aluminum bases. Drill wanders, job gets messy.

Consider third alternative, buy replacement set from 928 international. Best case, get original non-rekeyed set of possible, but they are probably pricey.

I like your new car!

928 GT R

Looks like a fun project. NO SR and pasha! Pure sweetness!!!

928NOOBIE

Same experience here. Ordered new primary key from Porsche...stupid thing wouldn't work. My shop wound up getting pi$$ed off enough they wound up fixing it themselves. You could easily see visually that the key was not going to work....we can engineer and build one of the worlds greatest GT's...just don't ask us to replace the key....we'll phone that cr@p in.

knuckles

Thanks, have a lead on an ignition lock w/key and will probably go that way.

Dug into the engine a little more. Removed plugs and oiled cylinders. All cyls had Bosch Platinums WR8DP except cyl3, which had a Bosch Super R6 WR7DC. Cyl3 was blacker than the others. Stuck the borescope down, some scoring towards the top of the cylinder, hoping not enough to be concerned about.
After oiling cylinders, rotated engine by hand. Moved freely thankfully.


Inspected fuel pumps, one below the tank and one in the RR wheel well. The one in the wheel well was wrapped in foam and such, suspect both pumps will need replacement.

Fuel pump - wrapped in foam. RR wheel well.

Foam removed.

karl ruiter

A lot of us just get rid of the intank pump and replace it with a strainer. My general sense is that the intank pump is there to make sure there is no vapor lock between the tank and the main pump, which is quite common in 911 and 914 of the early 70s. But with the main pump away from most heat sources and 4" below the tank, I don't see how it could be a problem.

knuckles

There are 2 pumps that I've put hands on in this car, one behind/below the fuel tank, and one in the right rear wheel well. The feed out of the tank to the first pump appears to be a filter (has a Purolator stamping). What do you consider the intank pump (fuel sender)?

Also, I've successfully rekeyed the passenger door and ignition lock. The car runs! Bit of a high idle, 2000rpm, but didn't let it fully heat up.

How the heck do you open the hatch from the inside! I've read the other posts...drilled the hole but can't get the hatch to pop.

Knuckles