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Question is 0/T 1-4 seems way out even with the marks set at at the timing set correctly. I have noticed that the rotor bolt pattern is off and I can't get the top bolt in. Trying to degree this to 0 like 5-8.
Is there an easy way to do this or do I need to pull CAM sprocket and rest that on and the rotor guide back on the key.
Something appears to be way wrong here- you should be able to get all three bolts in no problem. This suggests to me that the cam timing is way off and you have attempted to fit the 32VR index tool where you think it should be. Whatever you do do not turn the crank until we can determine what has happened and where to go next.
Perhaps you can advise what you have done to get to the current position. If you had the cam sprockets off or have fitted new ones the starting point should have been done at 45 BTDC then you can rotate the cams to your hearts content. That is precisely why the 32VR tool has an index mark for 45 BTDC.
So the cam will not turn any more to the right? if so then turn the cam pulley one more tooth to the right, then it should line up
NOTE put a ziptie on the DS pulley to hold the belt on while you jump the belt on the PS pulley.
What your trying to do here is line up the cam slot to the index mark, not the pulley.
Based on the picture the cam has to turn one more tooth to get into range
Started with oil change, new engine to chassis ground and flex plate check. Was checking trans fluid while in the air. While under there I heard a noise coming from 5-8 side. Long story short I found the CAM bolt on that side was loose and was flopping between the woodruff key. 47fftlbs not sure how it got it loose. Removed CAM covers to check position of the CAM's against the CAM chain. got that completed and it came out fine as the picture shows.
I did not touch the 1-4 side during this. This is my confusion.
Had most of the front end out so I decided to change the belt and install the PorKen tensioner. This is when it went hay wire.
So the cam will not turn any more to the right? if so then turn the cam pulley one more tooth to the right, then it should line up
NOTE put a ziptie on the DS pulley to hold the belt on while you jump the belt on the PS pulley.
What your trying to do here is line up the cam slot to the index mark, not the pulley.
Based on the picture the cam has to turn one more tooth to get into range
Was wondering about that. Must have happened while I was installing new belt. I did this 45 before.
Started with oil change, new engine to chassis ground and flex plate check. Was checking trans fluid while in the air. While under there I heard a noise coming from 5-8 side. Long story short I found the CAM bolt on that side was loose and was flopping between the woodruff key. 47fftlbs not sure how it got it loose. Removed CAM covers to check position of the CAM's against the CAM chain. got that completed and it came out fine as the picture shows.
I did not touch the 1-4 side during this. This is my confusion.
Had most of the front end out so I decided to change the belt and install the PorKen tensioner. This is when it went hay wire.
Before all of this it ran fine.
David,
What is concerning me at the moment is why you cannot get the three bolts holding the 32VR jig into place, If you can only engage two of them then just as with the rotor arm the jig has to be rotated 120 degrees to one of the other two positions and if you visualise such then the sprocket relative to the timing index must be way out. Hopefully I am missing something here and someone will correct me if so but I think you need to resolve this anomaly and why it has happened before anything else is done.
What is concerning me at the moment is why you cannot get the three bolts holding the 32VR jig into place, If you can only engage two of them then just as with the rotor arm the jig has to be rotated 120 degrees to one of the other two positions and if you visualise such then the sprocket relative to the timing index must be way out. Hopefully I am missing something here and someone will correct me if so but I think you need to resolve this anomaly and why it has happened before anything else is done.
Fred the hole is up against the far left side as you are looking at it from the front. I can see it and probably could get the bolt in but I did not think I could degree it correctly with the way the 32VR is setting so far off. I can spin the crank by hand the 2 turns and I'm not getting resistance bouncing any valves off the top of pistons. I will not crank until I have got the 32VR in correct position and degreed. I feel safer hand cranking right now so as to not have it do something horrible happen like bend a valve.
HUM thinking while typing: The gap in the gear is it 1 or 2 teeth wide?
Fred the hole is up against the far left side as you are looking at it from the front. I can see it and probably could get the bolt in but I did not think I could degree it correctly with the way the 32VR is setting so far off. I can spin the crank by hand the 2 turns and I'm not getting resistance bouncing any valves off the top of pistons. I will not crank until I have got the 32VR in correct position and degreed. I feel safer hand cranking right now so as to not have it do something horrible happen like bend a valve.
HUM thinking while typing: The gap in the gear is it 1 or 2 teeth wide?
The photo obviously suggests the timing is not too far out belt tooth wise but I could not tell where the hole for the screw sits- if it is simply a case of the sprocket being hard sided and just needs to be adjusted a tad to get it engaged all well and good- that concern would be solved.
Still not sure what exactly you did but when I do my cam sprockets I always do the timing at 45 BTDC using the 32VR tool and the bumpstick kit, I initially set the cam timing mid range and then engage the belt starting with 5/8 bank, make sure the system is tensioned and then feed the belt onto the 1/4 sprocket, I then engage the tensioner until the Kempf tool is in the target range then crank the system forwards to TDC No1 cylinder firing stroke and then set the belt tension. At that point I make the final adjustments to the timing.
The 1/4 timing seems prone to issues caused by the cam being displaced by valve spring pressure and the procedure can be tricky especially when doing it by one's self with no help holding things.
Hopefully you will have this sorted out in no time.
The photo obviously suggests the timing is not too far out belt tooth wise but I could not tell where the hole for the screw sits- if it is simply a case of the sprocket being hard sided and just needs to be adjusted a tad to get it engaged all well and good- that concern would be solved.
Still not sure what exactly you did but when I do my cam sprockets I always do the timing at 45 BTDC using the 32VR tool and the bumpstick kit, I initially set the cam timing mid range and then engage the belt starting with 5/8 bank, make sure the system is tensioned and then feed the belt onto the 1/4 sprocket, I then engage the tensioner until the Kempf tool is in the target range then crank the system forwards to TDC No1 cylinder firing stroke and then set the belt tension. At that point I make the final adjustments to the timing.
The 1/4 timing seems prone to issues caused by the cam being displaced by valve spring pressure and the procedure can be tricky especially when doing it by one's self with no help holding things.
Hopefully you will have this sorted out in no time.
Good news I got set correctly. When I redid the belt I moved it about 1 tooth at 45 degrees before. Here are photos now of both with all bolts in easily. After 20 turns this is the aftermath.
Thanks for all or your input.
5-8 with all rotor bolts 5-8 0 degrees 1-4 still set.
Always good to check things if there is any doubt in the cam timing department when working with an interference motor.
To be spot on the 1/4 bank should be at minus 2 degrees on a cold engine [not that I would expect to be able to tell the difference when driving]- this to compensate for what happens after the system is fully warmed up. Presumably your model year has the same requirement?
Always good to check things if there is any doubt in the cam timing department when working with an interference motor.
To be spot on the 1/4 bank should be at minus 2 degrees on a cold engine [not that I would expect to be able to tell the difference when driving]- this to compensate for what happens after the system is fully warmed up. Presumably your model year has the same requirement?
You are correct. I will readjust in the morning. I believe it is due to the chain stretching some after it is hot. To HOT to work in the garage right now.
The -2 | 0 setting cold is with a USED belt on a cold engine.
If you have installed a new regular belt (not Racing) belt then setting it to 0 | 0 will compensate for the belt stretching after break-in which equals about -2 on the 1-4 side. Checking the timing after a few thousand miles is a good idea though.
The -2 | 0 setting cold is with a USED belt on a cold engine.
If you have installed a new regular belt (not Racing) belt then setting it to 0 | 0 will compensate for the belt stretching after break-in which equals about -2 on the 1-4 side. Checking the timing after a few thousand miles is a good idea though.
Thanks for the update. I have not had time yet to make the 0 to -2 change yet so i will let it be and start it as is.
08-25-2021, 03:23 PM
86 Timing?
