Powerless GT, Hall Sensor? or not? What else?
#46
Originally posted by worf928
Yup. Coils, caps, rotors, plugs, wires.
Yup. Coils, caps, rotors, plugs, wires.
Good luck.
(grumbers to himself "lucky bas&^%d" for owning two GT cars)
#47
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From: Anaheim California
Gretch not to pick on you BUT I will : ) ......Gretch "I will lose ignition in one of the cylinder banks. " the failure and protection is two cylinders on EACH bank . As I am sure you know the plug wires from each distributer 2 cross over to the other bank . The temp sensor monitors for 89 were on cylinders 4 and 8 1990 > they were moved to 3 and 7 for " better readings " . If number 1 cylinder were not firing ( loose plug wire ?) I seriously doubt that the temperature sensor near the back of the block would pick up on the "failure" . They were concerned with ignition failure which would shut down spark to 4 cylinders and that is what it detects .
#48
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
...If number 1 cylinder were not firing ( loose plug wire ?) I seriously doubt that the temperature sensor near the back of the block would pick up on the "failure" . ...
...If number 1 cylinder were not firing ( loose plug wire ?) I seriously doubt that the temperature sensor near the back of the block would pick up on the "failure" . ...
And guess what this '89 has on the number 1 cylinder?
Wait for it...
The injector connector spliced by the PO.
So - back to the top of the thread: what's the easiest way to figure out if all of the injectors are properly firing? My new-from-e-bay 'scope is on its way. Can I just hook the test leads to the connectors on each injector?
Are the injector pulses reasonably low voltage/current?
#50
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by Gretch
I swapped each part out with the old one till I found the culpret....
Good luck.
I swapped each part out with the old one till I found the culpret....
Good luck.
(grumbers to himself "lucky bas&^%d" for owning two GT cars)
Right now I own maybe 0.95 GTs given the way this '89 runs and the fact that the t-belt on the '91 is currently exposed for the post-t-belt-R&R tensioning.
While you, Mr. Gretch, own - considering that you have a SuperShark- 1.4 GTs (at least)
#51
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
" noid light "
" noid light "
I am collecting a lot of tools in this almost 7-year Zen and the Art of 928 Maintenance experience.
#52
Originally posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
Gretch not to pick on you BUT I will : ) ......Gretch "I will lose ignition in one of the cylinder banks. " the failure and protection is two cylinders on EACH bank . As I am sure you know the plug wires from each distributer 2 cross over to the other bank . The temp sensor monitors for 89 were on cylinders 4 and 8 1990 > they were moved to 3 and 7 for " better readings " . If number 1 cylinder were not firing ( loose plug wire ?) I seriously doubt that the temperature sensor near the back of the block would pick up on the "failure" . They were concerned with ignition failure which would shut down spark to 4 cylinders and that is what it detects .
Gretch not to pick on you BUT I will : ) ......Gretch "I will lose ignition in one of the cylinder banks. " the failure and protection is two cylinders on EACH bank . As I am sure you know the plug wires from each distributer 2 cross over to the other bank . The temp sensor monitors for 89 were on cylinders 4 and 8 1990 > they were moved to 3 and 7 for " better readings " . If number 1 cylinder were not firing ( loose plug wire ?) I seriously doubt that the temperature sensor near the back of the block would pick up on the "failure" . They were concerned with ignition failure which would shut down spark to 4 cylinders and that is what it detects .
In any event I did not mean to convey more than what I know. What I know is that sometimes my car "feels like" it has dropped 4 cylinders. I incorrectly assumed it was 1 bank of 4.......
Always learning.......
#53
Originally posted by worf928
Can I just hook the test leads to the connectors on each injector?
Are the injector pulses reasonably low voltage/current?
Can I just hook the test leads to the connectors on each injector?
Are the injector pulses reasonably low voltage/current?
D-
If you pierce the harness wire with the scope probe, you will get the signal which is being fed to the injector. Of course, if a connector were intermittant / high resistance / defective your symptoms would probably have changed several times, given the number of times you have disconnected them. Use some "Liquid Electrical Tape" to seal the pinholes.
Of course if you find one signal to be out of spec, you would be able to suspect your harness from that point back to the brain. If all injector signals were affected, you might suspect or the brain itself (or brain wiring, ground, etc.).
The signals won't electrocute you and you will find a suitable range on your scope, if that is what you are concerned about. Be careful not to accidentally short anything to ground...
#54
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by Old & New
The signals won't electrocute you and you will find a suitable range on your scope, if that is what you are concerned about.
The signals won't electrocute you and you will find a suitable range on your scope, if that is what you are concerned about.
Be careful not to accidentally short anything to ground...
Besides, haven't we all shorted something to ground once or twice in our lives? Surely you've put an IC in backwards once or twice and smelled the results? Or perhaps seen a four-inch long arc of static from your finger fry a multi-hundred-dollar chip as you were pointing out how cool it was? (Not me on that one ) Grabbed an electric cattle fence twice because the first time it was kinda cool? (Not me either...) But, from whence would all these stories come if ground didn't always win?
#55
Originally posted by worf928
Yup. That was the question. Hooking up spark plug wires to a scope would be a baaad thing.
Yup. That was the question. Hooking up spark plug wires to a scope would be a baaad thing.
#56
Gretch,
The injectors are wired in two circuits just like the spark plugs -- 1, 4, 6, 7 on one; 2, 3, 5, 8 on the other (I think . . . off the top of my head). If the monitor on cylinder 8 (3 on later cars) is producing less voltage (because it is cooler) than that on cylinder 4 (7 on later cars), the 2-3-5-8 set of injectors will shut down, cutting off fuel (not spark) to those four cylinders. An elegant system, I think.
The injectors are wired in two circuits just like the spark plugs -- 1, 4, 6, 7 on one; 2, 3, 5, 8 on the other (I think . . . off the top of my head). If the monitor on cylinder 8 (3 on later cars) is producing less voltage (because it is cooler) than that on cylinder 4 (7 on later cars), the 2-3-5-8 set of injectors will shut down, cutting off fuel (not spark) to those four cylinders. An elegant system, I think.
Originally posted by Gretch
Jim, You know more than I ever will about these cars. Re your comment: "which would shut down spark to 4 cylinders", Without looking at the wiring, I assumed that meant 4 cylinders on the same bank, because (I thought) the idea was to avoid flooding a hot cat with raw fuel. What am I missing in the theory.
Jim, You know more than I ever will about these cars. Re your comment: "which would shut down spark to 4 cylinders", Without looking at the wiring, I assumed that meant 4 cylinders on the same bank, because (I thought) the idea was to avoid flooding a hot cat with raw fuel. What am I missing in the theory.
#57
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by SharkSkin
Not with the right probes. If that's out of range, put a couple of wraps of thin wire around the spark plug wire and hook your scope to that. Start on the highest vertical scale you can, and work your way down to a workable scale.
Not with the right probes. If that's out of range, put a couple of wraps of thin wire around the spark plug wire and hook your scope to that. Start on the highest vertical scale you can, and work your way down to a workable scale.
Or, just put a timing light on any wire to see if it's getting spark.
#59
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by glenn faken
dave
I wonder why your idle is at the s4 level.
my gt idles at 800 warm give or take a few. may want to check the p/n on the computer to make sure it's not an s4.
dave
I wonder why your idle is at the s4 level.
my gt idles at 800 warm give or take a few. may want to check the p/n on the computer to make sure it's not an s4.
I'm going to bet the answer is a simple brain fart on my part and that I typed the wrong number in the post on idle speed. I remember checking the idle speed months ago after everything was back together and the idle speed was where it should be according to the spec book. At the time the LH in the '89 was my spare for the '91, however the idle speed is the same and the '91 part number is correct.
I will re-check the warm idle speed once the '89 is back together after the hall sensor R&R. (I spent tonight doing the re-tension on the '91.)
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Originally posted by worf928
At the time the LH in the '89 was my spare for the '91, however the idle speed is the same and the '91 part number is correct.
At the time the LH in the '89 was my spare for the '91, however the idle speed is the same and the '91 part number is correct.
The proper LH for an '89GT is in the car now.
The behavior was the same with either LH.