JEC_31

1 entire weekend into the timing belt/water pump service, and I'm not even done taking things apart yet.
After the hours of fighting the A/C belt (had to unbolt the entire compressor), the hours of playing 928 archeologist (digging through the oil-dirt to find ancient hidden bolts), and the hours of beating the rusted-to-the-crank harmonic damper off (with a deadblow hammer, a chunk of 2x4, and a homemade puller rigged from scrap aluminum and my steering-wheel puller), I arrive at the water-pump removal.
Of the 10 water pump bolts, one is partially hidden by the little spinner idler mounted on the water pump where the real tensioner idler swings from. This little pulley, which appears to only be a safety to keep the belt from jumping around, is quite firmly press-fitted to it's boss on the water pump. The last mechanic to service this car (long enough ago so that his tensioner boot is hard, but not yet cracked...) was obviously very sure about getting all things very tight. There is only a few millimeters of clearance to get behind the thing to pry it off, so building another custom puller will be difficult, and I've already scarred it with a flathead screwdriver.

Any suggestions?

Oh, and BTW, how does the tensioner boot cover clamp come off?

Much thanks in advance!

Garth S

A good soak in penetrating fluid can only help removal of the idler: don't worry about the bearing - you can press in a new one for $7-8 if the roller ring is OK. Not having a puller, two screwdrivers can be used to pry it off. Protect the water pump, because the next user (read core deposit) depends on it. Also, soak the pump bolts with the same juice - there are 13 in total IIRC ( 5 short, 8 longer).
The tensioner clamp is usually a 'crimp to close' style - wiggle a screwdriver in the eye, and you can spread it open. The same type can be recrimped using end nippers ( wire cutters with jaws at right angles).
BTW, polish the crank nose and harmonic damper surgaces with ~400 grit emery cloth and reinstall with anti - seize: there's always next time!

JEC_31

Thanks Garth - I hosed it down with PB blaster before calling it quits last night, hopefully it'll be persuaded to move tonight.

I will definitely be polishing that crank and damper to a mirror shine - that was torture getting it off.

Thanks for the tip on the clamp - I didn't want to break it.

Rez

Go to home depot or ace and get a faucet handle puller. Its fingers are small enough to around there. I taped up the fingers as not to scratch anything.

heinrich

i had one that just would not come off. No problem .... just pull all bolts and then use a regular open wrench and pull the bolt as the pump comes out ... just let it sit under the roller for now. Not a lot of room needed back there.

JEC_31

Actually that was my first plan, heinrich. Then I discovered that there is just a little too much casting to get my smallest open-end in there -it's so close! But I'm going for Rez's faucet puller, I like any excuse to buy a tool.

UKKid35

Is this the part that is getting stuck?

Tensioner Idler Bolt

If so I can't understand how, sure the bolt can be hard to remove, but once it's off how can the arm get stuck?

I've not managed to remove the Idler from the arm, but I've only just got the new bearings (thanks for the tip Garth) so I didn't really try before.

JEC_31

Nope UKKid, I got that bolt out OK - I'll bet yours is rusted into it's hole.

My problem was that roller behind it - until I got home with the Rez Method Faucet Puller! My roller was so firm that the puller's fingers kept popping off with the strain, I had to put a Kantwist on 'em. Much thanks, Rez!

Now I need a new bearing, as mine is all rachety and 928 Inlt wants $55 for a new roller w/bearing.

Rez

Glad to help,

Now go tackle those leaky faucets!

Garth S

JEC_31,
PS - with 2 sockets and a vise, you can press that bearing out, clean up the roller shell, and press in a new $6 bearing - 5 min job! If you can't read the bearing #, I have it here....somewhere.

JEC_31

Got the number for the local Detroit Ball Bearing outlet in my pocket... and the number on my old rachety one is fairly legible - so I'm set for now thanks!