Seat Repairs Suck and other Rants
04-28-2021, 07:11 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The seats are heavier than the engine when you're trying to maneuver them into position. For that reason, I can't imagine the rails got messed up somehow. Taking out/putting back sucks for sure.
I am a little surprised a veteran like you hasn't been there and done that. I'm only a few years in and I've had my seats out probably 6 times, including for one of this year's spring projects: seat recovering.
I am a little surprised a veteran like you hasn't been there and done that. I'm only a few years in and I've had my seats out probably 6 times, including for one of this year's spring projects: seat recovering.
Horrible job. On of the first I did on my 80S as someone had swapped the seats and not connected the cut looms. The rails were offset relative to each other but I recall having the right tools being vital for the work - magnet when you drop the threaded plates etc., ball end hex driver for the bolts, preferably both to fit a ratchet handle and T bar
But this goes to show, the early cars are so much easier to work on. There is more room in the engine bay, things are lighter, there are fewer electrical things to go wrong, etc.
04-29-2021, 10:20 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
I've had the uneven rail issue once and the seat would bind up when moving, had to do the manual alignment using an hex bit 1/4 turn at a time.
My sequence for removal is now: move seats forward, remove rear bolts (slotted holes) first, then move seats rearward, remove front bolts from non slotted holes
Won't mess that up up again
Dave K
My sequence for removal is now: move seats forward, remove rear bolts (slotted holes) first, then move seats rearward, remove front bolts from non slotted holes
Won't mess that up up again
Dave K
04-30-2021, 12:19 AM
#18
Team Owner
NOTE put a dot of paint on the rail and the chassis where each bolt goes this makes lining things up as easy as 1 2.... What?
05-02-2021, 07:09 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
To make sure I understand, your recline in both seats isn't working, and you've replaced the switches with known good ones? (new ones are not necessarily good ones)
Check for continuity in the wires.
There's a zip tie that holds the wires to the S-springs on the bottom of the seat cushion.
It's super-duper tight.
It's been known to cause the conductor to break inside the insulation.
An easy way to check is to shove a needle into each wire above the zip tie. Apply 12 volts to the needles and see what happens.
Check for continuity in the wires.
There's a zip tie that holds the wires to the S-springs on the bottom of the seat cushion.
It's super-duper tight.
It's been known to cause the conductor to break inside the insulation.
An easy way to check is to shove a needle into each wire above the zip tie. Apply 12 volts to the needles and see what happens.
The following users liked this post:
linderpat (05-02-2021)
The following users liked this post:
linderpat (05-02-2021)
05-02-2021, 09:02 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
To make sure I understand, your recline in both seats isn't working, and you've replaced the switches with known good ones? (new ones are not necessarily good ones)
Check for continuity in the wires.
There's a zip tie that holds the wires to the S-springs on the bottom of the seat cushion.
It's super-duper tight.
It's been known to cause the conductor to break inside the insulation.
An easy way to check is to shove a needle into each wire above the zip tie. Apply 12 volts to the needles and see what happens.
Check for continuity in the wires.
There's a zip tie that holds the wires to the S-springs on the bottom of the seat cushion.
It's super-duper tight.
It's been known to cause the conductor to break inside the insulation.
An easy way to check is to shove a needle into each wire above the zip tie. Apply 12 volts to the needles and see what happens.