Hello Rennlist folks!

I'm finishing up some winter work on my 78 and trying to restore some of the original aspects of the car. Two questions have come up I can't figure out.

1. CIS control pressure hardline routing to the fuel distributor. I pulled it out to re-plate the hard line but it looked like a piece of spaghetti. I've straightened it up but it's unclear to me which route it should take to the WUR. Does the line pass under, over, to the side of the vacuum limiter unit or something else? Anyone with pictures show it would be greatly appreciated!
2. Correct orientation of the warm-up regulator for a 78 car. I'm not sure why, but I see the WUR installed length wise facing forward or length wise facing the distributor. I see this in pics online as well as in the factory repair manuals. Does anyone know if this is a change Porsche made from 78-82, USA-VS-ROW or is there some explanation for how a 78 car should be installed?

Picture of my control pressure line placed into the engine but not connected to the WUR below to help the discussion...

Control pressure line seen here attached to the fuel distributor.

Control pressure line seen here on top of the vacuum control.

control pressure line seen to the left here against the AC aux idle control valve.

 

perhaps this pic can help ? that is a '78 .

 

Thanks for the hardline pic. belgiumbarry You say that's a 78? I'm guessing it's been modified because the 78 should have hard fuel lines to the injectors as well, not the hose fittings as pictured. Maybe that's a non-US thing. Not sure.


That makes it look like it's suppose to kick up after it passes the center of the air meter, then stick tight to the side of the throttle body before going up to the WUR.

Maybe it's the angle of the picture, but the amount of line past the throttle body looks VERY long considering the WUR is just past there. But the cold start injector does look to be correct and the WUR is just past there.

This helps!

**Anyone on the WUR orientation? Question #2

 

those are not hose fittings.... but banjo's to connect the hard fuel lines. (It was indeed a Europe car.)

Now the WUR was at a strange angle mounted... don't know if this is oem ? on my '82 the WUR is nice in line with the engine.

 

here are some from my top end a few years back

 

which confirms the strange rotated orientation of the WUR.... at least in '78 .

 

Thanks guys!

Maybe the rotated WUR is a 78/79 "thing" and the other position is for 79 and up?

I'll try adjusting my control pressure line tonight to fit this plan.

 

#11 engine when new

 

 

Thanks very much for this vintage pic of #11. It seems that early cars had the regulator in this orientation and at some point Porsche turned it. I've got a 78 car myself, so this will do for my needs today!

I see a lot of unique aspects of this very early car too...

1. No wiper motor cover
2. Intake runners have part numbers visible
3. Aux air regulator is in a completely different location
4. Missing RAD decals
5. Missing jump start 12VDC post
6. Fender to hood seals
7. Plated steel headlight bar instead of painted
8. Placard next to hood latch

Hard to tell but looks like the bumper is missing the beading that later cars have too.

I have #419 built Oct 77. I deleted the oil reservoir-airbox pipe on my car as it was sucking up too much oil during autoX events. Thinking I'll reinstall it with a plug inside to prevent the oil intake.

 

the oil filler neck nipple has to stay open in one or other way.... it's the only vent for the engine blowby gasses..... ( water and oil vapor )
If you close it and no other vent i'm afraid you will blow out the dipstick ?

on rally cars we route that to a oil catch tank and further a air outlet "filter" .

In my 928 build i even went further and mounted a oil cooler for the gasses before catch tank / air filter. I think the more i can cool it , the more condens in the catch tank and less ( oil ) vapor to atmosphere. Also cooling gasses gives a "vacuum " ... so it should even have a sucking effect to the engine vent ...??

 

The early WUR had an aluminum plate which fixed them at the odd angle. It was to optimize heat transfer. Not sure why it was changed.

 

I've got a questions for you guys into the nit picky details on CAD plating. How are you guys getting your nuts, bolts, hose clamps..etc CAD plated? Are you sending them out to places, or doing them yourself with Caswell's kit? If using the do it yourself method, how is the process?

 

#11 current state.
The first 12 cars that were at the press launch in France didn’t have the bumper beading installed. They did receive the decals and wiper motor cover later on before being sold. My car didn’t have the rear seat belts installed at the launch but they were installed later by the factory. Lots of little detail changes on these very early cars.

I had an 79 euro a long time ago that had the same oil ingesting issue you mention so I tried to greatly restrict the hose. And like Barry said, it blew out the dipstick but it also caused a major external oil leak at the head gasket. I had to replace the head gasket to correct it. You will need to vent it somehow.

 

I used BURBANK plating out in CA. Sent out multiple cars worth of nuts, bolts and lines. Ran me around $400.00 or so a couple years back. Very happy with them. You will need to clean items pretty well prior to sending off.