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After reinstalling the clutch after the flywheel resurfacing I could hear a noise when clutch was engaged. Found some shavings that came from the guide tube.
Thanks on the Id now why do I have that other tube is the ?
After reinstalling the clutch after the flywheel resurfacing I could hear a noise when clutch was engaged. Found some shavings that came from the guide tube.
Thanks on the Id now why do I have that other tube is the ?
Yes, understand that....I've been trying to help from the start of your thread.
What I meant was, what did you find wrong?
Greg original issue was shudder especially when cold while engaging clutch. Had the assembly looked at and clutch company said nothing looked bad except for the flywheel needed resurfacing which I had done. After flywheel was resurfaced shudder was gone but a noise developed with clutch engaged pulled it and found the shavings.
Just replaced the damaged guide tube and cannot get both shafts lined up. I tightened the Pp bolts in several steps, small shaft can be moved in and out but will not align with collar. What I did notice is with PP tightened the rear disk does not rotate easily. I have pulled on the release arm with a bar to unload it and try to recenter but no luck. Not sure what is going on any feedback will be appreciated.
Thanks
looking at the last picture you can see what looks like a CRACK IN THE BELL HOUSING near the MFG date stamp,
see it?
NOTE Did you mock up the stub shaft with the guide tube? to figure out the proper insertion depth into the pilot bearing.
In the picture thats a significant mismatch between the shafts.
was the car in an accident or was the motor supported by just a jack on the bell housing,
and could have bent or cracked some part of the drive line
With mew guide tube installed AND BOLTED
the front shaft will not move and still have this alignment issue.
Common issue.
Use a big prybar (or a very big screwdriver....or ratcheting tie down to the rear of the car) and pull back on the T/O arm, while trying to rotate the short shaft. (Release the clutch.)
As soon as you can rotate the shaft, do just that. This will center the discs and the short shaft will then be centered and will slide back and forth.
If you use a big prybar or a big screwdriver, be careful of your fingers!!!!
If the prybar slips off the fork, you can hurt your fingers, if they are in the wrong place.
This is my 4th clutch job and never ran into this problem before, luck I guess. After a nights sleep and ibuprofen for my arthritis in my hands think I got it.
First there is not a crack most likely the angle of the picture which is good news. I inserted the lock pins and backed off the Pp bolts enough to recenter the clutch pack. Looking at my pre removal pictures I realized the short shaft was not seated far enough forward to insert the pilot bearing. Everything now lines up,
a mock up was not done on the short shaft to determine how far it needs to sit into the P bearing. Dealing with that its now installed is there a way to measure the forward shaft placement so it sits correctly?
I appreciate the feedback and help, getting too old, hands are shot to do these big jobs anymore!
To figure out the seat depth now push the stub all the way forward mark the shaft aft of the guide tube then slide the shaft back about 3 to 4 mm this will center the shaft in the pilot bearing
Note this is more difficult operation with the grease and the friction of both discs
mark the shaft at the new location measure the difference if you have a doubt
The H adjusters are set for 1.2 Mm and clutch is back to normal. I did not use the 3 alignment pins due due having to beat the crap out of them to remove. I’m not comfortable with the hammering due to the crank feeling the shock. My thought is if the pins are not used would this allow for and migration of the intermediate plate over time. Should I install them or not be concerned? If I need to install them what is the best way without the pounding.
Thanks
03-14-2021, 04:12 PM
