Instrument lighting/dimmer circuit
#1
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I've been running LEDs for the dash lights with one of Ed's Protizmo dimmers for a while now. I recently partially disassembled the pod to replace the ignition switch, and when I put it all back together, I noticed I no longer had any instrument lighting or any pod switch lighting save headlights. Sure enough, the LED on the dimmer box is solid red (current limit exceeded). I disconnected the output wire from the dimmer, to remove the box from the equation, and it's measuring a short to ground. Yet the connector where I attach the wire to the harness is still connected, and those wires disappear into the harness. I looked at the bolts to hold in the pod that I had removed, and don't see anything pinched. Any ideas what could have happened? Am I perhaps misinterpreting that "short" between what used to be the rheostat "output" side and ground?
#2
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An easy test to isolate the problem is to connect the two wires that fonto the dimmer together, essentially bypassing the dimmer. Hooked up this way, the lights should be full bright. If they are, the problem is in the dimmer module itself or need to be reset using the repetitive wheel cycling in the instructions. If the lights still don't work, the problem is somewhere other than the dimmer module.
#3
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There is a micro switch on top of the ignition switch housing that's easy to short out. Check that switch and the two wires. If it shorted, you of course have blown the fuse but if one of those wires came off, you will have the condition you describe.
#4
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Interesting...I'll look for that. Is that a switch to detect key insertion or something? I haven't noticed any odd behavior in that area but it is certainly worth checking.
#6
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Actually that chime has been a bit dodgy now that you mention it. I have a sticky door switch so I was thinking the chime was kind of intermittent due to that, similar to the interior lighting, but maybe it was another symptom of the current problem.