scottpeterd

So, engine is in and I am trying to start.

Timing belt is new and timing has been checked

we have spark, and the rotor is lines up to #1 at TDC.

Fuel pump is running, plenty of fuel pressure when checked at the input to the fuel distributor and the feed to the WUR.

when I disconnect the hard fuel line connection to the #1 cylinder, I get a strong flow of fuel when cranking the engine, but only if the vacuum plate is depressed. When it is not depressed, there is no fuel flow.

Is there a timing procedure to follow with the fuel distributor?

soontobered84

Post a photograph of the the harmonic balancer at TDC. It is very easy to put the HB on backwards. If this is what happened, you can have spark, fuel and compression, but the spark won't happen at the right time.

scottpeterd

hacker-pschorr

Did you replace the green wire? If so, how long ago did you buy it?

Might seem like a silly question, but just last week I was helping a friend with a 930 and it had one of the green wires with reversed polarity installed. He replaced the green wire and it wouldn't start, we figured out some previous mechanic flipped the connector in the harness to compensate for the reversed green wire. Either that, or there is once again a batch of those being sent out with reversed popularity.
You'll have spark / fuel but the timing will be so far off, it won't start.

Do you have an adjustable timing light?

scottpeterd

Green wire has about 25 miles on it. Replaced just before it went into the shop.

we have great spark. Checked at the coil, the dizzy and one of the plug ends.

We just found a fair amount of fuel in the cylinders. Maybe from cranking for a while.

But have also found fuel in the valley of the block. Suctioned it out. Cranked the engine for
about 30 seconds. More fuel. No obvious leaks

scottpeterd

I also put on a new 14 pin connector. But was very careful about the positions of the wires.

is there a key wire there? I know #14 has the bypass to put 12v at the ignition coil for starting.

The others are oil sensors, and the alternator sub-loom. The #1 is the blue wire going to the alternator. I am not sure what function that serves, except possibly for the dash charge light.

scottpeterd

We have not checked timing with a light, as the mech says the engine isnt turning over fast enough.

But I checked it statically, and found it was off. So pulled the dizzy and oriented it correctly

And the car was running with the new green before it came in.

soontobered84

Well, it doesn't appear to have that issue. HB appears correct.
The amount of fuel in the cylinder would seem to indicate that the engine is flooded. Remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine. Does it try to start after the extra fuel is pushed out of the cylinders?

GregBBRD

If you have fuel, and you have spark at the spark plug end of the plug wires:
Remove #1 spark plug. Put your finger over the spark plug hole in the head. Rotate the engine, by hand, until you feel the compression stroke (air pushing out past your finger.) Continue rotating to TDC. Remove distributor cap. confirm the rotor points towards #1 spark plug terminal, in the cap/caps.

scottpeterd

Greg,

That we have done. Everything is correct.

Reached in the bore with a piece of paper towel. Can out w about 1/2 in of fuel.

pulling all the plugs to air out the cylinders. Will crank with FP disconnected

But we just groke the plug end on #4 wire

scottpeterd

Update.

checked with a timing light. Showing 50btdc at cranking.

pulled dizzy and timed so it is showing 30 BTDC at cranking

scottpeterd

Checking voltages on the ignition coil.

When the ignition is on, but not cranking, these are the voltages (referenced from ground) on the ignition coils: 2.5 on the negative, 4.5 on the positive

When cranking: 3.5 on the negative, 6 on the positive

i would not have expected any voltage on the negative.

GregBBRD

Fuel distributor piston stuck at full travel?
Cold start wired so that it sprays all the time?

At any rate, your engine is not very happy with what you are doing.....

Pull all the spark plugs and crank the engine over, with the fuel pump fuse removed. Change the oil and filter.
Squirt some oil down the spark plug holes, crank the engine over to get some oil on the cylinder walls.
Pull all the injectors out of the manifolds and hook everything up. Spray the injectors into containers and see how much fuel they are delivering.

PorKen

Specification is 30° @ 3000 rpm... not cranking

khalloudy

You have compression
You have spark
You have fuel pressure
Are the injectors spraying fuel?
MAF connected?
LH Working?
EZK Working?
Also one silly one I had to deal with before was the Temp Sensor II being broken and hence the car would not start before. Check its resistance.
Did you check that the computers are getting the data? Plug a Theo Diagnostics tool or similar to check all information is reaching the LH and EZK.