First time since 2006
#1
First time since 2006
This is the first time she has moved under her own power since 2006 (can’t get video to load - job for another day)
First problem is no gauges working - temp, fuel, oil & voltmeter
Second no indicators - are these all related?
RPM works and a few lights below the gauges light up.
I have checked all fuses, which are all OK (all new fuses)
This car has been through a tough time and spent time in the elements including moisture inside.
I don’t really want to take the car any further until I can tell if the engine is over heating so any help or suggestions welcome
Thanks Matthew
#2
I would start by cleaning all the ground points.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/631546-grounding-points-to-be-cleaned.html
If starting have a look for previous discussions (& opinions) of precautions on this site.
Personally I wouldn't try to start an interference engine without a belt change given the length of time it has been sitting. If it's a 4.5 then I might...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/631546-grounding-points-to-be-cleaned.html
If starting have a look for previous discussions (& opinions) of precautions on this site.
Personally I wouldn't try to start an interference engine without a belt change given the length of time it has been sitting. If it's a 4.5 then I might...
Last edited by C531XHO; 09-28-2020 at 01:01 PM.
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edlocke (09-29-2020)
#3
Hello and congrats! I remember the feeling when mine started for the first time.
As far as your cluster my guess is grounds or the cluster connections themselves. If your car has been sitting for a long time - especially in the elements, I would suspect every ground point inside and out probably needs to be freshened up.
Removing all of the fuses and relays from the CEP probably would go a long way towards reliability as well. A good clean of all those connections with deoxit should help.
If those do not take care of it, I would suggest a check of the actual instrument panel connections. The individual connection pins are tensioned and when plugged in this tension is what creates a connection with the foil. Over time these pins can lose tension and not make contact. The foil itself can get brittle and break as well - causing all sorts of issues - especially if it is a ground trace that breaks.
Hope this helps!
As far as your cluster my guess is grounds or the cluster connections themselves. If your car has been sitting for a long time - especially in the elements, I would suspect every ground point inside and out probably needs to be freshened up.
Removing all of the fuses and relays from the CEP probably would go a long way towards reliability as well. A good clean of all those connections with deoxit should help.
If those do not take care of it, I would suggest a check of the actual instrument panel connections. The individual connection pins are tensioned and when plugged in this tension is what creates a connection with the foil. Over time these pins can lose tension and not make contact. The foil itself can get brittle and break as well - causing all sorts of issues - especially if it is a ground trace that breaks.
Hope this helps!
#4
Clean all the grounds.
Pull the pod, clean up all the connections there (Dwayne's write up is good for this).
Pull the CE panel, clean that up (Sharkskin's write up is good for this).
Your concern about driving it without a working temp gauge is smart.
Overheating the aluminum engine can & will warp the heads.
However, you can check the temp with an IR temp gun, It's a good idea to have one to calibrate the dash temp gauge, so you know where 'normal' is.
Start it up, idle it for a bit (5-10 min), check the temps at the water bridge & radiator hose outlet.
Drive it somewhere that you can pull over pretty much any time you want to.
Pull over every few minutes and check the temp until it stabilizes (should be around 180F or so).
Pull the pod, clean up all the connections there (Dwayne's write up is good for this).
Pull the CE panel, clean that up (Sharkskin's write up is good for this).
Your concern about driving it without a working temp gauge is smart.
Overheating the aluminum engine can & will warp the heads.
However, you can check the temp with an IR temp gun, It's a good idea to have one to calibrate the dash temp gauge, so you know where 'normal' is.
Start it up, idle it for a bit (5-10 min), check the temps at the water bridge & radiator hose outlet.
Drive it somewhere that you can pull over pretty much any time you want to.
Pull over every few minutes and check the temp until it stabilizes (should be around 180F or so).
#5
Congratulations on getting that old girl started and running!!
as others have said, it’s grounds and relays time. Get that fuse panel warmed up and clicking again. Deoxit.
Check for chewed wires/hidden nests etc.
Again congrats ! Getting it to start is a giant step forward. 2006!!
as others have said, it’s grounds and relays time. Get that fuse panel warmed up and clicking again. Deoxit.
Check for chewed wires/hidden nests etc.
Again congrats ! Getting it to start is a giant step forward. 2006!!
Last edited by 928 DesMoines; 09-29-2020 at 01:23 AM.
#6
Hi
Thanks for the feed back, so far I have replaced the water pump and all belts, all filters, oils and repairs to the radiator (Before starting)
Yes the engine fuel lines are well up the list.
Have disconnected and cleaned all grounds along with removing the CEP for a clean and replaced all fuses.
Am I correct in believing relay V is for the indicators? Can I test to see if this is the issue for the indicators not working and if so how?
Looks like it’s time to remove the pod and see what delights the PO’s have left for me!
It is a tribute to these engines that after 15 years they can start with minimal work.
Thanks for your replies
Thanks for the feed back, so far I have replaced the water pump and all belts, all filters, oils and repairs to the radiator (Before starting)
Yes the engine fuel lines are well up the list.
Have disconnected and cleaned all grounds along with removing the CEP for a clean and replaced all fuses.
Am I correct in believing relay V is for the indicators? Can I test to see if this is the issue for the indicators not working and if so how?
Looks like it’s time to remove the pod and see what delights the PO’s have left for me!
It is a tribute to these engines that after 15 years they can start with minimal work.
Thanks for your replies
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#8
GP IV is on the steering column. Look up under the driver's side dash (You may have to take the cover off that goes around the dimmer and wiper speed control) and you should see a large bundle of brown wires together.