@Chopperharris thanks for the support Yeah i have been staring at it this morning, i am pretty sure that getting the whole meter out to align it good is the best option. So thats the next step, getting it out, get the new plate in, and make sure it gets the right height. I think i still have the gasket since it was the only thing i did not touch (and put a new gasket in) when refreshing the engine 2 years ago Lets see if that will make the car acting more normal again...Cheers...

 

 

Hello Arie, did the replacement of your metering plate solve the issue ? I am also doubting whether my running issues are not the same as yours....
Where did your buy your metering plate ?

 

Hi Gerrit,
Bear with me, i am bit busy, so trying to have progress in the evening I will keep you posted! I buy my stuff (next to the big shops in the USA for the more special parts) here: https://alpo.nl/
Great service (just around the corner of the Zandvoort grand prix circuit), just send the an email what you need. Always fast in response and 9-10 times cheaper then rosepassion...

Cheers,

Arjan

 

I am really curious....I also know Alpo (Robert-Jan & Michael) because I often ordered some 928 stuff and they are indeed always helpfull, friendly and fast and this all for a good price.
I will certainly check with the Alpo guys.
My problem will be either an AIR FLOW issue (metering plate) of a vacuum issue.
Keep me posted.

 

@GerritD Jup, like their service, cool shop too...one of my first suspects was vacuum, but I think I got that completely checked by blowing air into the system (I actually found to points that where not holding vacuum). This is litterly one of my last options I guess (went from fueltank to this) otherwise I will start rechecking the new injectors etc

Just took it out, fueldistributor is stuck (one of the screws is busted), but I might even keep it there and clean all around it. I bolded it up there a few months ago without problems after a professional refurbish)


I will keep posting the next steps. Clean, install new plate with a light underneath, put it back, out pressure on it and align according to specs. Etc etc

cheers!

 

One of the FD screws also jammed when i stripped mine and the head stripped. I drilled the head of the screw off, removed the FD, and then removed the remnants of the screw with vice grips.

When you re-install follow the steps in the WSM for torquing the bolts down and note the method for the ones with the springs on...

 

I wonder what the purpose of the fasteners with the springs is. I actually replaced mine with stainless regular socket cap screws when putting mine together last year and don't notice any issues.

 

The fasteners with springs are needed to deal with possible vibrations of the whole metering house and thus loosing the fasteners after a while because of the vibrations...
One could also use normal fasteners but you will then need to use loctite...and this is delicate as thread is in aluminium material...

 

I figured that was the purpose of the springs. The curious part to me was the tightening them down, then loosening them 1 full turn. I guess that's to allow the spring to actually exert pressure and adjust for temperature change (expansion and contraction), instead of being fully compressed and then heat expanding the spring metal making it even tighter. I think I just put a regular lock washer under mine.

 

Other question : on your photo I can see that you blocked the valve from engine to air pump . Why did you did this ? I left mine unconnected but open :

 

That's the way my car always was since I've had it with the supercharger mod, so put it back together the same way. I'm guessing it was blocked off when the air pump was deleted some time in it's history..

 

on my engine , prep'd from a race shop, was even that bridge removed and sealed with plugs in the heads.
I assume it's a internal channel to the exhaust port(s) ?

 

Hi

Yes that’s exactly what it does - it pumps air into the exhaust system via those ports at the back of the heads. On a non-cat car it’s a very simple, and non effective, emissions system. On a car with a cat it also helps warm the cat up when cold.
I’ve deleted my entire system and plugged the heads with M16x1.5 plugs (like in yours). Alternatively the pipe work at the rear of the engine could be left on with the end plugged as per Petza914’s setup.

Cheers

 

When I looked into it before I read that the early CIS cars had them all the around the meter - the purpose was to stop the meter unit warping, during heat cycles, and creating a vacuum leak. On the later CIS cars they were just around the pivot - I assume the reason was the same but it seems strange that they’d serve any purpose given all the others where ‘normal’ bolts. There must be a (small) risk of it warping in this area due to it being a stress point.

Cheers