jwbeck17

I am going through my engine bay and have identified that the hall sender cable that is part of the ignition harness is dried and fried as soon as it comes out of the passenger fuel rail area. (The other wires were fried too, but those have been fixed.)

the hall sender cable is an 18 gauge 2-conductor shielded cable that leads to a 3-prong female connector.

I plan on getting a replacement connector from Roger, but am interested in your thoughts on where I should get the replacement wire. Web searches think this is audio wire, which it clearly isn’t.

Ang thoughts on where I can find a similar replacement wire?

Mrmerlin

why not buy a good used harness from 928 INTL

jwbeck17

Thank you for the tip, Stan. I sent an email to see if they have a replacement harness.

Obviously I'm concerned about cost, as I have only seen Kroon or 928 Motorsports carry injector harnesses and those I think run over $3K. I wasn't aware that used may be available.
Plus, I would have to figure out the removal and installation process, and I have not done that one before. Hence I was thinking a splice and replace of the hall sensor cable may make the most sense.

If I had my preference, I think the harness replacement would be best, but just not sure about availability and cost, so I'm looking at both options.

ammonman

Two-wire shielded stage microphone cable is about as close as you will find and works well. To make the splice you want some connectors made be TE Connectivity. The are commonly referred to as "solder splice" connectors. They come in all sizes and types from simple butt connectors to round, spade, and blade terminals with or without provisions for an external drain wire. These little beauties include the terminal of your choice with a bit of clear glue-lined heat shrink that has a ring of solder at the wire joint. Simply strip your wire, insert into the connector so the wire is inside the solder ring and heat with a hot air gun or pencil torch. The heat will melt and flow the pre-fluxed solder and shrink the tubing all in one step. The tricky part of working with shielded cable is splicing the braided shield. TE Connectivity make a "stepped" diameter splice that works perfect for this application. It take a bit of prep to make the splice. There are a number of videos on YouTube showing the process. The only caveat is larger diameter wires must be pre-tinned as there just isn't enough pre-formed solder in the connector for greater than 16 gauge wire.

jwbeck17

In the end I have decided to replace the entire injection harness. It is a lot of money to spend, but it should be one less thing to worry about for years and years. I already replaced the FOE engine harness last year and many of the sensors themselves have been replaced along with the injectors, so I think this just completes the engine electrical update.

Once it arrives, I'll have to figure out how to install it!

rjtw

I have an '83 so not the same harness, but I imagine the later harness follows a similar path and follows about the same procedure. I have a few photos and comments about replacing the harness starting at about post 64 here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...oses-83-a.html

Word to the wise -- coat the big rubber firewall plug with Molykote silicon grease before installation, and also all the rubber boots at each connector. In fact, Molykote is great to use on rubber components everywhere in the car -- I've been using it religiously during my renovation work. It's also great on the door seals. Molykote keeps new rubber from drying out and cracking, and it can really rejuvenate old rubber too.

jwbeck17

thanks for the link and the tip.i have a bunch of Molykote too after I redid my hatch and door seals.

i guess the positive thing to think about is that when I install the injector cable, everything it connects to is relatively new. Most, of not all of my sensors have been replaced, as well as the injectors. The MAF was just rebuilt and even the EZK/LH was rebuilt a few years ago.

Hopefully that will eliminate electrics from most future engine issues. We’ll see, as the harness comes in later next week, so it might be a fun...or frustrating...weekend project.

javiherdepa

https://www.ebay.es/itm/153489989937
There you have it, that's the one I used to replace the flywheel sensor wiring, from the connector to the pins of the ezk

GerritD

perhaps silly question, but what are the effects of a bad working hall device? What happens if this unit is not sending correctly
signals to my distributor ?