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Current Fair Market for a Euro S

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Old 03-28-2004, 02:01 PM
  #31  
John Speake
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Tim,
Glad to hear you got the car. They are very good, and a manual 'box is rare.

I would not recommend doing "max" type tests on your way home. The MAF is probably well aged, this will give a weak mixture at WOT, and when the throttle is punched. If you try and max it, the mixture will be weak, the top speed poor, and you risk damage.

The Euro S2 was set up on the weak side of mixture, and is more sensitive to a weak mixture than an S4.

You need to replace the rubber belt between the two distributors as soon as you get it home.

About 20mpg (UK) but you guys use funny gallons........

Dual aircon was very rarely fitted in the UK, certainly an optional extra.

The Engine code should be M28-21

Engine number is in the usual place top edge of block at front centre.

The number should be in the range 82F00001 to 99999

Where 8 = 8 cylinders. 2 = ROW 4.7L 16v F=1985 MY, numbers= serial number .

Hope this helps...............
Old 03-28-2004, 02:05 PM
  #32  
Old & New
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Originally posted by TeufelHei I doubt seriously that the owner has performed some sort of presto-chango on the engine, but what serial number range am I looking for on the motor (and where the heck is it)?
Motor is located under the front bonnet. You will want to find code M28/21 stamped on a flat under the upper radiator hose fitting.

I am going to perform ad-hoc performance tests enroute, what top end speed am I looking for?
Inadvisable. You would probably want to drive the car a while and get familiar with it and the condition of trivial items like tires, brakes, front end components, etc. before doing a salt-flat. It does not yield enough information to justify the risk.
Old 03-28-2004, 03:17 PM
  #33  
TeufelHei
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OK, no cannonball runs on the way home then. Thanks for the help on the engine SN.

John, was the Euro set up to run lean? I wonder if one could adjust this as the temperatures here in Arizona don't tend to support such things. I intend to tune the car up here when I get it back.

What besides the distributor belt, oil, filters, fluids, cam belt tension, O2 sensors, plugs + wires, distributor caps, coils, fuel injectors, coolant, thermostat + switch, transaxle/diff fluid, and accesory drive belts should I be looking at taking care of? The goal is to have a car at the beginning of it's basic maintenance cycle when all is said and done.

Old&New, I hope you were kidding about the location of the engine, Mr. Funnyman.
Old 03-28-2004, 03:19 PM
  #34  
TeufelHei
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Also, I forget if our gallons are larger or smaller than the Imperial variety. John...
Old 03-28-2004, 04:28 PM
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John Speake
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Tim,
I haven't followed this thread through, so I'm not sure of the history. The Euro S2 isn't much different to any other 928.

Changed the cambelt waterpump, even if someone syas it was done recently. I've seen too many bodged up jobs. Tensioner boot should be changed, bushes on tensioner arm, rollerif not smooth - I'm sure you know all this !

Coolant must be changed every two years. ................

I think Porsche set up the S2 on the edge of the weak side of optimum to get good mileage figures. There are a couple of tricks, but if the MAF is in calibration, and the injectors are working correctly, then they run very well. It's just that they have no margins for things going slightly on the weaker side of optimum.



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