Fuel Tank replacment
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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I am in process of replacing my fuel tank with a used one picked up from a fellow Rennlister.
The replacement tank had the splash well (I think that is what it is called) cover loose in the tank so I removed it. When I removed the sending unit from my tank I also dislodged the cover because the sending unit would not pass through the cover. Can the cover just be removed and left out for normal driving?
I see that most people cut the vent line (928-201-194-02 (or 03?) to make it easier to remove the tank but is the line NLA? I don't see it on 928 International's website. I suspect that because it is a molded/shaped hose a length of standard fuel line of the correct size is not really a viable option but if it is NLA what are people doing for replacement?
I plan to wash out the replacement tank prior to installation but any tips regarding an effective cleaning process would be appreciated.
I am hoping to get this project completed to allow a few miles to be accumulated yet this year, it has been about a year since the car has moved under its own power, but other projects keep getting in the way.
The replacement tank had the splash well (I think that is what it is called) cover loose in the tank so I removed it. When I removed the sending unit from my tank I also dislodged the cover because the sending unit would not pass through the cover. Can the cover just be removed and left out for normal driving?
I see that most people cut the vent line (928-201-194-02 (or 03?) to make it easier to remove the tank but is the line NLA? I don't see it on 928 International's website. I suspect that because it is a molded/shaped hose a length of standard fuel line of the correct size is not really a viable option but if it is NLA what are people doing for replacement?
I plan to wash out the replacement tank prior to installation but any tips regarding an effective cleaning process would be appreciated.
I am hoping to get this project completed to allow a few miles to be accumulated yet this year, it has been about a year since the car has moved under its own power, but other projects keep getting in the way.
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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That cup at the bottom has small available ports to limit loss of suction at the pump under hard cornering. It makes no difference when tank level is above about 20%. IIRC it also guides the sender to the bottom of the well. Does it provide 'extra lateral support'?
#3
Team Owner
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If you replacing the external tank vent line that goes through the frame
See Roger he has the early hose it’s made of thicker material and costs less and should last longer
Note replace the fuel return line where it meets the sender this should be done with the tank removed
See Roger he has the early hose it’s made of thicker material and costs less and should last longer
Note replace the fuel return line where it meets the sender this should be done with the tank removed
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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Dr. Bob, is there a way to get the part snapped back in place once it has become free? My big fat hand will not fit through the sender opening in the top of the tank. I would also need to determine if it needs to be modified to allow the sending unit to be reinstalled as my sending unit would not retract through the opening and that is what popped it out of place on my exiting (to be replaced) tank.
Mrmerlin, I planned to replace all the flexible lines involved that have not been recently replaced given their age but thanks for the insight about the earlier line available from 928sRus (I have used them before with great success).
Mrmerlin, I planned to replace all the flexible lines involved that have not been recently replaced given their age but thanks for the insight about the earlier line available from 928sRus (I have used them before with great success).
#5
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FWIW when I could not re-seat the cover on my tank's anti-slosh bowl I removed it through the sender opening. It will fold over like a taco shell and can be pulled through the opening with some reasonable effort and vice grips and swearing.
FWIW (2) While my tank was out I found a weeping stress fracture after cleaning out the tank and using a hose. You may want to give your tank a really good once over inspection.
86.5 928S
FWIW (2) While my tank was out I found a weeping stress fracture after cleaning out the tank and using a hose. You may want to give your tank a really good once over inspection.
86.5 928S
#6
Rennlist Member
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Re the short rubber return hose that goes from the metal line to the sender top - when I had my tank out I gave the rubber bit a light tug and it slipped right off the metal line! I suggest you replace the rubber bit and attach it with a quality clamp, while you can. Also dont forget to replace the foam cushioning where the tank contacts the bodywork. The back if the car needs to be pretty high to get the tank out - much higher than I expected.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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I finally got to this project and the replacement tank is in place with about 5 gallons of fuel added (so far so good). I removed the detached baffle as described by Meatful.
I replaced all of the rubber lines related to the tank venting and fuel return. I had recently replaced the fuel strainer and strainer to pump hose so I used those for the installation.
I need to button up the related covers and install the battery but should be able to drive it for the first time in over a year later today.
I replaced all of the rubber lines related to the tank venting and fuel return. I had recently replaced the fuel strainer and strainer to pump hose so I used those for the installation.
I need to button up the related covers and install the battery but should be able to drive it for the first time in over a year later today.