I replace the senders when I replace the FOE harness.

 

Kevin, how did you even get that off the sender? I have a small collection of late FOE harnesses, all with the sender still welded to that connector. They seem to melt together.

 

Mine hasn't been off the sender yet. I suppose I want it secure enough that it won't fall off the pins anyway. I'm speculating that the pins are same size as the ones for the oil level switch, so the plan was to embed those pins in a molded silicone plug so the connections stay protected from corrosive road crud. The shape of the factory connector is a challenge for a simple pour-in mold though; it may need some "improvement" to avoid needing a three-section mold as the factory piece certainly did. "Over-engineered" is a term we never use on our cars.

 

Tied a length of rope around the sender and attached to a nearby doorknob and waited for somebody to open the door. Works every time.

 

jcorenman, thanks for the info!

I have just ordered both of these. Here are the links. However, the Williams 1 1/16" crows foot is listed as 3/8" drive.

Williams 24mm 3/8" drive crows foot:


Williams 1 1/16" 3/8" drive crows foot:


I don't need these this second, but will be useful in the future.

 

I have my new sender in the car but I am having challenges getting the crowsfoot on to tighten to the proper torque, The alternator and the oil filter are obstructing the ability to fit the tool. So my options are to grind down material on the crowsfoot or remove the oil filter (just recently changed).

I am thinking the best path forward is to remove the oil filter, about how much oil is sitting above the oil filter port?

 

Somewhere between a cup and half a quart or so but it'll drip for a long time thereafter, have a catch bucket ready.