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So, with all other lines not inserted, the large low P line only goes in as shown in the above pic. I put the old valve back and it fits the same. The pipe does not seem bent or damaged. Wondering if I should disconnect the fuel cooler from the line to give batter manipulation.
EDIT: New expansion valve in and drier. The expansion valve clamp is not flush against the valve body but I as of now I can pull -30 on the vac and it's holding. Hopefully I've got it.
EDIT 2: Not holding vac after an hour.
Looking at drier - the new drier had a shrader valve built in. The 134 adapter also has one. Should I have removed the schrader valve built into the drier ?
Fuel cooler clamp and connections MUST come loose to allow the expansion valve to come out without bending the low-side connecting piping. If you just pried it away from the firewall instead as you extracted the expansion valve, the connecting pipe is bent and will be a b!tch to get sealed properly. The plate and bolts just -hold- the pipe in the expansion valve, and will always have a problem sealing if the pipe is trying to pull itself out. The end of the tube needs to fit perfectly in the bore in the expansion valve so it has to be round, the pipe sealing flange needs to be perfectly square to get the o-ring compressed perfectly evenly all the way around. Call 928 International and see if they have a good used pipe section to go there. Replace both o-rings on the cooler while you are there.
Transpires you have the union fitting I alluded to in an earlier post so that most certainly needs to be loose. Whoever designed that system appears to be clueless with regards to piping design as even with that union installation will still be tricky as they probably never considered what was needed during replacement of the expansion valve rather it was probably designed considering intial build working away from the expansion valve.
I do not have that union on my system and I loosen as much as I can along the firewall to give a little more flexibility. With that union undone you should be able to make a test fit of the expansion valve and try fitting the LP line disengaged at that union by fitting with the final section rotated 90 degrees just to test the fit and ensure that everything aligns. Getting he final section in will still be difficult and if something is bent it will be nigh on impossible. Fitting pipework around mechanical equipment is an art form in its own right and the correct assembly sequence can make night and day type differences.
The vacuum should hold for ever and a day if the system is all "ship shape and Bristol fashion". If it cannot hold vacuum it will almost certainly not hold pressure.
No idea why you have a schrader valve on the drier- just leave it with a pressure tight sealed cap anywhere you have such.
dr bob - thanks, I did loosen the clamp on the fuel cooler which gave me just enough wiggle to get the evap in/out. I'm pretty sure the pipe is not bent or damaged. thanks.
Fred, after it didn't hold vac, I removed the gauge from the drier port and capped it (I think this is the high line and is where there are now 2 schrader valves - the one in the drier pipe and one in the 134 connector that screws on.) Then pulled vac only through the connector under the top radiator hose (low P ?) This morning, it was only down 5lbs and held vac at -25. I'm wondering now if the vac loss is a result of the gauges and not the system ? The quick disconnects always leave me wondering if they are truly sealed.
Fred, after it didn't hold vac, I removed the gauge from the drier port and capped it (I think this is the high line and is where there are now 2 schrader valves - the one in the drier pipe and one in the 134 connector that screws on.) Then pulled vac only through the connector under the top radiator hose (low P ?) This morning, it was only down 5lbs and held vac at -25. I'm wondering now if the vac loss is a result of the gauges and not the system ? The quick disconnects always leave me wondering if they are truly sealed.
Gauge sets can leak unlikely as such may be. Always check schrader valves to ensure they are seated correctly- if not they can and do leak.. I like to do both vacuum tests and a pressure test - the latter being limited to 100 psig by my pissy little air compressor- not perfect given the ac compressor can generate pressures of 250 psig or more when pushed but even if I could test at such pressure I am not sure whether the LP part of the circuit can handle such- I suspect they can but I do not know that for a fact. I do know that 100 psig was not enough to detect a recent leaking compressor seal that a new item solved.
Bottom line you really need to find out why the system is not holding vacuum.
If the low side line won’t go in all the way with no other lines connected, with either the new or the old, the fitting is damaged (bent or out of round). You will never get a good seal.
So, Guys - All set at 43 degrees thanks to assistance from Pete at Pete's Stop in Smithtown Long Island ! Highly recommended and great guy - Thanks Pete
Couple of lessons learned to end the thread.
In order to get the expansion valve orings seated properly, it really is crucial to remove the L shaped low pressure line to the fuel cooler. Doing so allows you to properly seat the expansion valve as you tighten the screws.
The new drier has a schrader valve built in. You need to remove that and use the schader valve in the 134 quick fitting. My mistake.
Not sure why, but the orings we used at first were just a bit off. Pete used slightly thicker orings and it sealed.
In the end, the heater valve needed to be held closed - which is something I already fixed so I need to track the vac leak on that line back to the solenoid (hoping the line simply came loose) - but otherwise I now have cold AC.
Thanks Fred, decided not to flush. BTW, no rear air to worry about.
I definitely pinched 2 orings and that's the leak. Will try again tomorrow. But, here's a pic. The front low side (larger line, correct) doesn't seem to go in flush to allow the clamp to sit flush like the rear. Is it supposed to ? Even without an oring, it doesn't go in any further.
you have bent the large pipe going into the expansion valve. There is very little “wiggle room” for alignment of these parts. Mine was a PITA and i have the hood and wiper assembly out. Mine isnt as bad as that though and i hold vaccum and now charge for a month.
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