Griot's Synthetic Clay
#16
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I've used tons of waxes and sealants over the years. RejeX is one of my all time favorites. Great performance. Long lasting. Economical. Easy on. Easy off.
It's huge in the aviation circles, for small private plane owners.
RejeX is great for the whole car, but a couple places it really shines (pun works here) are wheels/wheel barrels, because it can hold up to the heated generated in these areas. Another area it works really well are leading edges (hence the popularity in aviation) like front bumpers and side mirrors. The Rejex is so slippery and hydrophobic, that it really helps on these leading edges to clean-up bug splatter.
Another benefit of having some RejeX in your detail arsenal kit, is for stubborn spots & stains & race rubber. Hit is with the RejeX and wipe off. An easy way to remove many things before trying more aggressive measures. Less is best.
It's huge in the aviation circles, for small private plane owners.
RejeX is great for the whole car, but a couple places it really shines (pun works here) are wheels/wheel barrels, because it can hold up to the heated generated in these areas. Another area it works really well are leading edges (hence the popularity in aviation) like front bumpers and side mirrors. The Rejex is so slippery and hydrophobic, that it really helps on these leading edges to clean-up bug splatter.
Another benefit of having some RejeX in your detail arsenal kit, is for stubborn spots & stains & race rubber. Hit is with the RejeX and wipe off. An easy way to remove many things before trying more aggressive measures. Less is best.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just a follow up:
The Griot's synthetic clay works great. One criticism is that if you don't keep it moving it will stick, and transfer sticky material to the paint. It wipes off, but is still a nuisance.
Today I thought I check my 2011 Benz coupe. I thought it was pretty clean and smooth after I washed it. I clayed a small section just for fun. WOW, also a huge difference. Now I had to do the whole car. Anyway the newer paint (no specific history of care) was way easier to clay. Virtually no sticking and it went smooth very quickly. I chalk this up to less junk in the paint, but who knows. My point is if you keep up with you paint care, it should be very easy to use the Griot's synthetic clay. Even if you don't it's pretty darn easy.
Good luck,
Dave
The Griot's synthetic clay works great. One criticism is that if you don't keep it moving it will stick, and transfer sticky material to the paint. It wipes off, but is still a nuisance.
Today I thought I check my 2011 Benz coupe. I thought it was pretty clean and smooth after I washed it. I clayed a small section just for fun. WOW, also a huge difference. Now I had to do the whole car. Anyway the newer paint (no specific history of care) was way easier to clay. Virtually no sticking and it went smooth very quickly. I chalk this up to less junk in the paint, but who knows. My point is if you keep up with you paint care, it should be very easy to use the Griot's synthetic clay. Even if you don't it's pretty darn easy.
Good luck,
Dave
#18
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Click on the link he posted, that's not the kind of "clay" he's using.
Here's a good article comparing traditional clay (which comes in many grades, some more aggressive than others) and the "new" synthetic clay like he's using:
https://www.lenosgarage.com/blogs/au...r-vs-clay-mitt
Isn’t ruined if it is accidentally dropped on the ground. Rinse with clean water and inspect carefully to ensure no particles are stuck.
It's important to note that depending on how contaminated the surface was, polishing may be required after claying to help correct any micro-marring that may have occurred. If no micro-marring is present, then we suggest to add protection (wax and/or sealant) immediately after claying.
The mildest clay, white compound, I use to wash the windshield. Nothing removes bugs, tar etc... faster.
The medium blue clay I use regularly to remove any surface contaminants not removed by washing or if the finish started to lose that "smooth" feeling.
The red clay is very aggressive, only used when absolutely necessary like one car with heavy over-spray from sitting in the back of a body shop. It looked fine, but the finish felt like sandpaper. Anytime I use the red clay I follow it up with the blue.
https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/...-kit-g1016-kit
https://www.meguiars.com/professiona...200-g-clay-bar
https://www.meguiars.com/professiona...200-g-clay-bar
This can get somewhat confusing. A few years ago I ran out of Meguiar's Blue Medium grade clay so I called my friend who is a professional detailer / body shop to see if he had any. He gave me a package of "Clay Magic Medium", said it's similar to Meguiar's medium except.....it's red. I found it's more aggressive than Meguiar's blue but not as much as Meguiar's red.
https://www.annexcolors.com/products...ium-grade-red/
Their fine grade is blue (I have yet to use it).
https://www.annexcolors.com/products...ne-grade-blue/
The NanoSkin mitts changed everything. I have yet to use the more aggressive yellow mitt but I use the blue one with every car wash, it's awesome:
https://www.nanoskinusa.com/products...itt-fine-grade
Putting these links together I found this...now my head is spinning
https://www.autoguide.com/top-15-best-clay-bars
Your method though is similar to how I use the clay mitts now. Except I don't use Dawn but instead a dedicated car wash shampoo, same concept though.
Now they have M110 / M210. I have yet to try either one. The Meguiar's forum is a great resource for detailing. They hold regular classes in SoCal:
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...Speed-Compound
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...nishing-Polish
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...10-to-the-test
#19
Awesome thread and info. I wash my cars approximately every new presidential cycle. Because it takes so damn long. I’ve owned a few 928sRUS I never even washed.
#20
Burning Brakes
Glad it all worked out! With respect to the rear bumper, it seems to be common, especially on early cars, for the rear bumper to fade at a faster rate than the rest of the car. To polish it out properly, a lot of heat is probably needed, so a standard dual action buffer won't suffice. A rotary would do the trick, but they require a certain amount of skill that isn't necessary for a dual action or random orbital.
For sealants/protection, I now use coatings almost exclusively. I love to experiment and rarely ever buy the same coating twice, so have used much of what is available on the market. Most recently I used Kamikaze Miyabi, and am quite impressed with it. We'll see how long it lasts, but I just tested its water beading capability and was amazed. The price is steep, but a little goes a LONG way. You should easily be able to get three vehicles coated out of a 30ml bottle.
For sealants/protection, I now use coatings almost exclusively. I love to experiment and rarely ever buy the same coating twice, so have used much of what is available on the market. Most recently I used Kamikaze Miyabi, and am quite impressed with it. We'll see how long it lasts, but I just tested its water beading capability and was amazed. The price is steep, but a little goes a LONG way. You should easily be able to get three vehicles coated out of a 30ml bottle.
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Got a foam cannon attachment for your pressure washer yet? It's a great solution with a tablespoon of Dawn or you favorite foaming car wash detergent. Cool day in the shade, up to a day with light drizzle, is ideal
#22
Glad it all worked out! With respect to the rear bumper, it seems to be common, especially on early cars, for the rear bumper to fade at a faster rate than the rest of the car. To polish it out properly, a lot of heat is probably needed, so a standard dual action buffer won't suffice. A rotary would do the trick, but they require a certain amount of skill that isn't necessary for a dual action or random orbital.
For sealants/protection, I now use coatings almost exclusively. I love to experiment and rarely ever buy the same coating twice, so have used much of what is available on the market. Most recently I used Kamikaze Miyabi, and am quite impressed with it. We'll see how long it lasts, but I just tested its water beading capability and was amazed. The price is steep, but a little goes a LONG way. You should easily be able to get three vehicles coated out of a 30ml bottle.
For sealants/protection, I now use coatings almost exclusively. I love to experiment and rarely ever buy the same coating twice, so have used much of what is available on the market. Most recently I used Kamikaze Miyabi, and am quite impressed with it. We'll see how long it lasts, but I just tested its water beading capability and was amazed. The price is steep, but a little goes a LONG way. You should easily be able to get three vehicles coated out of a 30ml bottle.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOc...xARl_ZA/videos
#23
This stuff better come with a loaded $1,400 AMEX gift card in the box!
Chemical Guys KORE R4 Premium Paste Wax KORE_B
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cem-kore-c
Chemical Guys KORE R4 Premium Paste Wax KORE_B
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cem-kore-c
Last edited by Shark2626; 05-11-2020 at 05:08 PM.
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Further update:
Today I clayed my third car with the Griot's Synthetic Clay. I must say that on this car, a 996 Turbo, I saw a significant decline in clay performance. I had to go over the same area multiple times and still did not get the perfect surface that I was able to achieve in the first two cars. So for $25 I was able to do three cars, the third one less well than the first two. There may be better choices out there, in regular clay and synthetic clay. I will say that the form factor of the Griot's device is excellent, and it is very easy to use. Since these are the only cars I would consider doing this on, I would be pretty happy to pay this once a year for the excellent convenience. It's not going to do 10 cars however. Maybe 3 cars, maximum.
Thanks,
Dave
Today I clayed my third car with the Griot's Synthetic Clay. I must say that on this car, a 996 Turbo, I saw a significant decline in clay performance. I had to go over the same area multiple times and still did not get the perfect surface that I was able to achieve in the first two cars. So for $25 I was able to do three cars, the third one less well than the first two. There may be better choices out there, in regular clay and synthetic clay. I will say that the form factor of the Griot's device is excellent, and it is very easy to use. Since these are the only cars I would consider doing this on, I would be pretty happy to pay this once a year for the excellent convenience. It's not going to do 10 cars however. Maybe 3 cars, maximum.
Thanks,
Dave
#25
Further update:
Today I clayed my third car with the Griot's Synthetic Clay. I must say that on this car, a 996 Turbo, I saw a significant decline in clay performance. I had to go over the same area multiple times and still did not get the perfect surface that I was able to achieve in the first two cars. So for $25 I was able to do three cars, the third one less well than the first two. There may be better choices out there, in regular clay and synthetic clay. I will say that the form factor of the Griot's device is excellent, and it is very easy to use. Since these are the only cars I would consider doing this on, I would be pretty happy to pay this once a year for the excellent convenience. It's not going to do 10 cars however. Maybe 3 cars, maximum.
Thanks,
Dave
Today I clayed my third car with the Griot's Synthetic Clay. I must say that on this car, a 996 Turbo, I saw a significant decline in clay performance. I had to go over the same area multiple times and still did not get the perfect surface that I was able to achieve in the first two cars. So for $25 I was able to do three cars, the third one less well than the first two. There may be better choices out there, in regular clay and synthetic clay. I will say that the form factor of the Griot's device is excellent, and it is very easy to use. Since these are the only cars I would consider doing this on, I would be pretty happy to pay this once a year for the excellent convenience. It's not going to do 10 cars however. Maybe 3 cars, maximum.
Thanks,
Dave
Your cars are done now for 3 months or so, perhaps next time try a real clay bar like the Meguiar’s clay bar kit (my preference) or Mother’s or Griots or whatever to get a relative comparison.
Last edited by Shark2626; 05-13-2020 at 08:34 AM.