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Connect a DMM to one of those CE inputs at the 30 header bus bar. Where do you want the DMM's ground connected?
Connect another meter to the battery positive and the battery negative (not chassis ground) terminals.
Drive the car and see how much difference you see. You can add a very temporary large-gauge jumper between the jump post and the CE panel. like out the back of the hood in through the open window and down to CE panel, to eliminate the wires in the KS1 harness. If there's still a difference in readings, the primary wiring in the FOE KS2 harness is suspect.
Need some clarity on where the first DMM should be grounded?
Assuming those engine on values are at idle of 750 RPM, they look pretty good. My alternator is pretty sensitive coming off idle, with voltage going up 1.0 to 1.5 volts from 750 RPM to 1100 RPM. I get low alternator output at idle, too. I don't spend that much time at 750 RPM though.
Good luck,
Dave
05-22-2020, 06:30 PM
