928 S /4.5 Jet Tronic Starts Does Not Rev
#16
Nordschleife Master
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I'ver seen three similar threads. The things that resolved the issues in the other cars are:
1. have the fuel distributor (professionally) rebuilt
2. have the fuel injectors (professionally) inspected and cleaned
3. unplug the MAF to see if the behavior changes, if it does get the MAF rebuilt through Louis Ott
Good luck.
1. have the fuel distributor (professionally) rebuilt
2. have the fuel injectors (professionally) inspected and cleaned
3. unplug the MAF to see if the behavior changes, if it does get the MAF rebuilt through Louis Ott
Good luck.
#17
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
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The chassis ID with year "B" is 1981 model year production. The engine ID M28/12 is 1981-1983 consistent.
If the timing is OK and the vacuum connections to the warm-up regulator are intact, the next step will be connecting a CIS pressure gauge set to the to warm-up regulator connections to verify system pressure (main fuel from pump with regulator working) and control pressure (managed by the warm-up regulator to the fuel metering unit/distributor) to verify the fuel supply. As shared previously, a favorite failure, especially for cars that have been stored, is fouling of the fuel pressure regulator by debris from the inlet screen where the incoming fuel line connects to the fuel distributor. The only reliable way to diagnose is with the gauges, and the charts in the workshop manuals. Disassembling and tinkering blindly is suicide on this system.
If the timing is OK and the vacuum connections to the warm-up regulator are intact, the next step will be connecting a CIS pressure gauge set to the to warm-up regulator connections to verify system pressure (main fuel from pump with regulator working) and control pressure (managed by the warm-up regulator to the fuel metering unit/distributor) to verify the fuel supply. As shared previously, a favorite failure, especially for cars that have been stored, is fouling of the fuel pressure regulator by debris from the inlet screen where the incoming fuel line connects to the fuel distributor. The only reliable way to diagnose is with the gauges, and the charts in the workshop manuals. Disassembling and tinkering blindly is suicide on this system.
#18
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Hi Hi
You see If the car Idles, the timing light shows 26 degrees and when I turn the distributor it dies and my timing marks are exactly right on
Hi Wayne thanks sent you a reply please I will appreciate it a lot thanks man for the CIS
Regards Marius
You see If the car Idles, the timing light shows 26 degrees and when I turn the distributor it dies and my timing marks are exactly right on
Hi Wayne thanks sent you a reply please I will appreciate it a lot thanks man for the CIS
Regards Marius
#19
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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Timing should be set at 28-31 degrees (depending on specific motor) at 3,000 rpm with the vacuum lines to the distributor disconnected.
#20
Team Owner
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put the engine at TDC then remove the distributor cap,
make sure the rotor is centered at the hash mark on the distributor body If not mark the housing then,
remove the distributor hold down bolt,
then lift the dizzy up,
turn the rotor a small amount and insert it
make sure the rotor is centered at the hash mark on the distributor body If not mark the housing then,
remove the distributor hold down bolt,
then lift the dizzy up,
turn the rotor a small amount and insert it