Coolant leak. Root cause??
#121
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Other question for you as 928 specialist : my idle is not stable when engine warm( Kjet system) All fuel pressures are ok. Car runs fine and accelerates perfectly . I have also vacuüm meter and it is stable @ -0,5 bar.
i thought I solved the issue by making it richer via the CO mixture screw. It worked directly But next day I had the problem again😟
#122
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I need to look for a more solid solution because I want to keep my engine...Perhaps another product ? Could the temperature (100°C) of the engine be the reason ?
#123
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Oh No! That's a bummer. I was skeptical whether that would stand the test of time. Maybe someone can weld it for you with the engine in the car once you remove the stuff in the way.
#124
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Just reread your thread from the start, almost every option was presented. There were some additive products mentioned by brand name, but if you go that route you may want to do additional research for newer, more advanced products of that type. Good luck!
#125
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I need to check if the leak is at the same place, because if it leaks at the other long side of the crack, I am afraid my engine could be lost
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#126
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If your gonna go with the Epoxy fix I would suggest that you use this stuff instead of the JB.
Its Called Belzona 1111 its sounds like what you would need to fix this
CAT recommends it for fixing damaged engine blocks and the online reviews seem to say that its the best stuff
NOTE check E bay and online for purchase options
Watch you tube videos on how to use this epoxy,
this might be the best epoxy choice for your block
Its Called Belzona 1111 its sounds like what you would need to fix this
CAT recommends it for fixing damaged engine blocks and the online reviews seem to say that its the best stuff
NOTE check E bay and online for purchase options
Watch you tube videos on how to use this epoxy,
this might be the best epoxy choice for your block
So I do not know the max dry & max wet temperatures of Belzone 1111
#127
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Looking at the last photo of the finished job I think it would have been better if you used heat from a hot air gun to start the curing process and allow some glue into the crack. The preparation with the abraided surface looks OK and if the area is properly degreased then that glue will hold at that temperature. It certainly does on my race car. I would do the same again but this time apply plenty of the JB Weld and apply heat from a hot air gun until the glue smooths out. The glue should end up with a glossy smooth finish.
#128
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To make double sure of a lasting repair you could take a piece of 1mm aluminium sheet cut to just oversize of the repair. Panel beat the sheet to fit in that V section and glue that in place with a nice thick layer of JB Weld. Apply heat to the alloy sheet and push the sheet in enough so that there is still a layer of glue behind it and the glue oozing out is smooth and glossy.
#129
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Looking at the last photo of the finished job I think it would have been better if you used heat from a hot air gun to start the curing process and allow some glue into the crack. The preparation with the abraided surface looks OK and if the area is properly degreased then that glue will hold at that temperature. It certainly does on my race car. I would do the same again but this time apply plenty of the JB Weld and apply heat from a hot air gun until the glue smooths out. The glue should end up with a glossy smooth finish.
My fear is that JB weld cracked by heat of the engine since it is rather tough when dryed.
So as soon as I have dismantled the intake spider, it will reveal to me what went wrong.
#130
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Do not add acetone to the glue. The glue can be made to run like water with a hot airgun. Have a practice with some scrap aluminium and study the effects.
#131
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apparenrly it is also in the offshore business to fix oil pipes, even under water.
It is not cheap : 150$ for 450gr but I will try again as it is still cheaper than new engine and is a Quick fix