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How to remove ignition control unit on 84 L-jet

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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 01:00 AM
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Default How to remove ignition control unit on 84 L-jet

Hi guys,
I'm working on an intermittent no spark no start problem. I have a thread on that problem, and I asked about ignition box removal, but it's kind of buried, so I'll ask separately.
I want to remove my ignition control box, but it is really difficult to get to. To add to my trouble I have a big old supercharger elbow pretty nearby. Can anybody tell me the best way to get to the box. Easier from below? I can see the box, but I can't even really see the fasteners or the connector. Sorry for the bother.
Thanks,
Dave
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 03:28 AM
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Hi Dave,
I have a pretty good picture here, post 95: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post15865578
Three screws into the inner fender, connector on rearward side.
However, maybe just leave it mounted, unplug the plug, and plug in the new/test box? Grounding the new/test box of course...
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 09:00 AM
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Thanks, Rick.
On your beautiful car it looks doable.
Dave
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 09:28 AM
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I just looked and mine, and I think removing the supercharger elbow, and getting it back together is going to be a bear. With it there, it's impossible to get at the screws or the connector of the spark box. I will ruminate on it a bit, but I'm thinking about bailing out on the ignition box swap. We'll see.
Thanks all,
Dave
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 02:56 PM
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This is what I'm looking at. My jump post is cracked, so I've got a new one. I am cleaning up some wiring related to the supercharger install (5 fans, one watercooled intercooler pump). The wiring is not in the way, but the supercharger elbow really blocks access, and is not that easy to R & R.
Thanks,
Dave
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 04:50 PM
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Alright, guys,
I was being a wimp. By working from above and below, I was able to remove the supercharger elbow, with blow off valve. Then I got to the two screws and one bolt that held the ignition box in place. I could then wiggle it out from below (maybe I could from above too) and was able to disconnect the old box. I put Deoxit on the connectors, then grounded the box, and did a temporary test. The car started right up.
Thanks for the encouragement. Don't know how I'll get everything back together, but I'll cross that bridge later.
Dave

Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; Mar 30, 2020 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 06:25 PM
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For what it's worth, when I did my R&R on the engine bay last year, I discovered that the rubber boot for the connector to the TSZ spark box had almost completely disintegrated in place. And I found lots of dust and dirt around the contacts. Yuck. That was one of the main drivers that led me to replacing the entire main engine harness. Did you find evidence of dust and dirt getting into those connections as well? In any event, this R&R is well worth it, DeOxit and cleaning is always a good thing. Even if this problem appears again (fingers crossed it doesn't) you at least can cross one more thing off the list of possible causes. Hope this nails it!
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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Yeah, Rick. That was my thought. My boot was kind of dry, but inside the connectors were very clean. I think I will just install the replacement permanently. My reason is that I have proven it's not DOA, and the odds of two units having an intermittent fault is very low.
Thanks,
Dave
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 06:43 PM
  #9  
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Sounds like a great plan. BTW, it's a good idea to coat that rubber boot with Molykote DC 111 -- especially seeing as how the boot is still in one piece but dry, that will help it stay flexible and last much longer.
It'll be great to have that monster back on the road!!
Rick
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 06:52 PM
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Good idea, Rick. I was thinking the same thing. I just ordered the Molykote DC 111.
Thanks,
Dave
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