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This is a trick response. That engine is completely dry only because you haven't put any oil in it yet. If you did it would fall out on the floor from where the oil pan normally goes.
Greg Brown mentioned in a thread (sorry...) that he puts a new Porsche bolt in at every belt replacement. He mentioned that he hasn't found a reliable enough substitute to the original blue whatever-it-is that Porsche puts on the bolts new. Cheap insurance I suspect.
That special washer looks amazingly similar to the one used on a German-manufactured Ford V6. Cute washer with an o-ring molded into the ID.
+1, a new bolt with the proper sealant on it (928 105 075 03) is less than $15. Which is stupid money for a bolt, but priceless when you don't immediately drain your tensioner oil all over the AC compressor.
This is a trick response. That engine is completely dry only because you haven't put any oil in it yet. If you did it would fall out on the floor from where the oil pan normally goes.
Just sayin'...
That is right. The picture was taken with the oil pan off. Despite the fact I never got an approval from Mr. Brown to make my own oil pan gaskets, I decided to make them anyway (see my avatar picture). After test driving, I can see both the oil pan gaskets and the tensioner bolt are completely oil tight. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post16468219
Åke
Last edited by Strosek Ultra; 03-16-2020 at 08:38 AM.
That washer is interesting but... The oil needs to be kept out of the threads someplace above the nut. If it has made it to the washer and nut it's too late. Loading straight threads means that one face of the thread is loaded as the bolt is tightened. The other face is unloaded, and all the clearance will be there. Task is a way to block oil flow down the unloaded face of the thread. A few drops of non-hardening sealant might do the trick, but it needs to be strong enough to hold the oil pressure across whatever the clearance cross-section is on the unloaded side. Hylomar is pretty good, but I'm surprised it works for this application as it has no particularly good strength beyond a thin film. Honda-/Yama-/drei-bond might be slightly better. One might wonder why we don't just use a hardening sealer, and that would probably work util you adjusted the tension bolt at the 1000-mile adjustment. After that it would leak. Meanwhile, I use the Teflon thread sealing paste for lots of things, but didn't consider it for this duty last time.
Greg Brown mentioned in a thread (sorry...) that he puts a new Porsche bolt in at every belt replacement. He mentioned that he hasn't found a reliable enough substitute to the original blue whatever-it-is that Porsche puts on the bolts new. Cheap insurance I suspect.
That special washer looks amazingly similar to the one used on a German-manufactured Ford V6. Cute washer with an o-ring molded into the ID.
i think that’s called a Dowty washer. There are a number of them dealing aircon parts in my 2006 Saab, instead of the (much cheaper) green o-rings.
I don't put anything special on that main adjustment bolt and it has never leaked. However, that's probably because the oil usually leaks out everywhere else on the tensioner.
I don't put anything special on that main adjustment bolt and it has never leaked. However, that's probably because the oil usually leaks out everywhere else on the tensioner.
Peculiar.
Gravity will make the oil seep out through the threads. Porsche originally put some blue stuff on it.
03-15-2020, 09:54 AM
Just sayin'... 
