Get a good hard time line from your painter on when it’s safe to do PPF and ceramic coat...ie cure time. I’m sure it varies depending on prep process and paint used. Make sure they stand behind that timeline so you’re not left out in the cold if your finish looks cloudy after the protective measures. Otherwise congratulations on taking this big step and saving up for it. I saved up for my interior job- even tho I could’ve just got it done- and it was so much more satisfying and guilt- free to have waited.

 

I would not be putting anything on top of the paint for 2 months to let all the solvents out, not even an indoor soft cover.

I left the pod bases in place, no real need to remove them and potential damage putting them back in, the painter should be able to work with them in. It also helps close off the headlight apertures which means less risk of dirt flying out and ruining the job.

I didn’t dismantle my mirrors either, no need even although I performed a colour change on mine so you certainly should not have to. Again risk of damage while reassembling the parts and no real need for the painter - if they are presented in folded in position then the two main parts being painted separate slightly which is perfect for painting.

Definitely remove the gutters for a superior job as it’s not possible to paint the gutter properly with them fitted.

Ensure the bodyshop actually removes the bumpers, you would be surprised what they will not do to save 30 minutes on a job - ask for pictures of the painting or to come over and see it prior to the top coat going on, after all it’s your $9.5k being spent.

Insist on a warranty period and get a description in writing, you would be surprised what can happen afterwards - that will help keep you safe.

If you are having any filler work done like rub strips really there should be a long period between laying down the filler and sanding/ priming it due to contraction or sinkage. This happens to all filler work however the thicker the filler the more the sinkage. If you were not in a hurry then consider having the filler work done and leaving 3 months between that and painting taking place to minimise any sinkage. The body shop might rubbish this idea because it’s better for them to simply bash through a job and get paid but again it’s your money.

The very best restoration shops will take 6 months to prep a car for top coat but we are talking about multi million pound cars but it gives you the idea.

Attention to detail, meticulous preparation and cleanliness are the foundations of a top class job.

Hope this helps

 

My 87 is wearing fresh silver metalic....glass out new seals and some trim, rear wiper delete, body color wing....body shop owned by a former Porsche assembly line mechanic who tells me he worked on virtually all 928's from 85 to 95....knew every detail and did a fantastic job.....$10,000 cdn including all new rubbers etc....

 

getting there...

rear windows...are about the only must come out item left.

still ponderingnthe drip rails and lower body trim.....that stuff scares me.

its starting to become a bit overwhelming

I have parts and baggies labeled everywhere i can in my garage.

 

There is a school of thought that placing rope under the edge of the rear quarter seals allows the paint to get where it needs to get. Removing the seals can reveal the start of rust.

Be very very careful removing the windows. Those seals can tear at the ends and they aren't cheap to replace.

 

From someone who has been there, rethink having the labels taped off. Too many options for reproductions. Take high res pics and order new ones. Nothing says cheap repaint like dodgy labels. drill a hole in each door hinge the perfect size for to locate each hinge perfectly on reassembly. I used a 1/8th inch drill bit. Take the doors off as well as the hatch and take off the drip rails.

 

When I did mine the body shop did the lower body trim and did a good job so I don't think it can be that bad, the drip rails .... that is the one thing where I wish I got new ones or maybe left them on, they insisted they needed to come off to do it right and the clips on mine lost their retention abilities once put back on, also it is a devil to get them aligned like they were at the factory.

Looks like you did a great job stripping her down!

Chris

 

Clearly, I am not on the same level when it comes to repainting as you guys.

 

Ordered paint code label on Friday, it got here on The following Thursday. Less than a week from order. Came out perfect. Also ordered the bar code sticker and never had one on mine so I need to find pics of where that one goes.

 

See if this helps. Pic from my '89 928 archives:

 

Tony, out of curiosity: did you find any rust on your car?

My car is also an '87, and we found a few spots that needed repair (apart from the aluminium, that was done already).

None under the rubbers of the rear quarter windows, which surprised me!


Manfred

 

Lower plastic rocker panels off today...and some other crap done.

Drip rails are the last thing to pull now...

it is taking me a while, but.....im in no hurry and am actually enjoying the process. I have fixed and addressed so many items along the way. New blower motor from Roger is just one item....it is so easy to do it all when the hood is off. Got rid of a rats nest of old wiring...replaced defroster and center vent pods...etc etc...the list goes on but it has gotten much shorter.

 

A question for those who have removed the rear wiper and filled the hole.
If you welded the hole shut, was there a risk in cracking the glass due to heat from the torch?
I need to get done too.

Please and thanks

 

What doesn't get shorter is the re-assembly time....
And if you can say "I enjoyed the process" when the car is completely back together, then you're golden!
Right now, put that enthusiasm in your bank and see how it goes.

 

Keep up the good work Tony!!