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Yeah. I don't think I've intentionally used the defrost switch in years. But again, fingers crossed. I'm hoping the ignition switch is causing my no start, but that's probably a red herring too.
Thanks for the ref's,
Dave
Maybe half a dozen perfect cold starts since reassembly. I am still going to replace the ignition switch when it arrives. The engine compartment is reassembled, and the wiring cleaned up by installing an auxiliary fuse block for supercharger accessories such as electric fans. I find if I turn the ignition switch off very slowly and deliberately, it functions fine. If I just quickly twist it to the left, sometimes the engine does not turn off. Here's my underhood now:
Thanks,
Dave
I pulled my old ignition switch. It has 928 (or 964, can't remember) numbers on it, and I think I got it from one of our top vendors about 5 years ago. When I turn it with a screwdriver, it feels somewhat disconnected with tight spots and loose spots. I'm going to compare it to my new one, coming tomorrow, thanks 928Int'l, before I open it up.
Thanks,
Dave
Hi David,
I think you're right. My fantasy is that it is somehow not always maintaining ignition power during cranking, thus causing my intermittent no start condition. I would be happy though, just to be able to turn off the engine every time I turn the key to "off".
Thanks,
Dave
Well anyway, I'm getting pretty good at pulling the ignition switch:
Disconnect battery ground strap at "wingnut"
Loosen two screws on black under-panel and remove.
Remove one screw on panel covering stalk levers, then two m6 bolts, and remove panel.
Remove two long allen head m6 bolts at each end of the pod.
Lift pod away from ignition switch and upward toward windshield. Wedge a block of wood to maintain this position.
Good luck,
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 04-08-2020 at 09:12 AM.
Thanks. I need help all the time, but I try not to inflict myself on anyone except Rennlist. In spite of that, I appreciate the offer, and if you need help, contact me also.
Dave
Well anyway, I'm getting pretty good at pulling the ignition switch:
Disconnect Battery
Loosen two screws on black under-panel and remove.
Remove one screw on panel covering stalk levers, then two m6 bolts, and remove panel.
Remove two long allen head m6 bolts at each end of the pod.
Lift pod away from ignition switch and upward toward windshield. Wedge a block of wood to maintain this position.
Good luck,
Dave
Clean list!
Suggestion inserted.
Lots of spark potential up under there
Update, (Hooray?)
and summarizing my ignition switch thread, I have three different ignition switches and the engine ran on with the key in the OFF position on all three. I tried pulling the defrost relays and still had the problem. I ran the same checks with the electrical part of the switches free of the steering column and turned with a screw driver. Same running on about half the time. I could finally jiggle it with the screwdriver and eventually get it to stop. Usually had to jiggle it until I got starter gear noise.
Then I had idea to swap the starter relay XIV with the fresh air blower relay. They are both 53B relays.
Suddenly all the problems are gone. 60 consecutive start/stop cycles without a glitch. About half with the free switch and screwdriver, half with the still installed new switch. No explanation on a circuit flow level. Nonetheless the present results look pretty good. I went from 50:50 chance of not turning off the engine with the switch, to 60 times in a row of perfect start/stop cycles. I ordered some new 53B relays.
Fingers still crossed.
Notice the 60 good starts, which is where this thread started. No failures to start with this configuration (new ignition control unit, new AFC relay, new FP relay, and "different" starter relay.)
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 04-09-2020 at 01:02 AM.
Glad you got it fixed, all I can think of is the one of the adages by a guy named Chris,.
"first thing to do on any 928 with electrical problems it to clean the CE panel " this would include replace the fuses and relays that appear to be corroded,
I would buy as many new 53 relays that you have in your panel and swap them one by one and test for the proper function.
throw the old ones away