Rear Axle Boots
02-13-2020 | 03:46 PM
#16
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Joined: May 2014
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From: South Florida
Thanks for that. Not sure why but looking at the pieces disassembled, I completely forgot that those inner splines were inside the area with CV grease everywhere. Once I started putting it all together, that suddenly became obvious :-)
Didn't see this answered...
The inner splines are completely contained between the boot and the end cap. Use CV joint grease to coat the splines prior to sliding the joint onto the shaft, then install the circlip. You've already packed the joint itself with grease, and filled the cap prior to snapping it on to the end of the assembly. Slide bolts in with the security plates, and use a couple nuts ready hold everything together while you prepare and install the boot. Pack the boot about half full of grease after you slide it into position on the shaft, so there's a bit of space left to allow for expansion and flex in service. Then secure the boot at the big end with the larger clamp. On the shaft (small) end, slide the boot towards the joint and clean the shaft where the boot will seat. Draw the end of the boot back onto the cleaned area and install the small-end clamp.
Use the correct tool to secure the clamps. It's tempting to just grab the nippers and squeeze the clamp, but that bends the clamp up in the middle of the crimp, leaving three bends where there should be only the original two. the clamp tool has a pad in the middle that prevents that third bend as you crimp.
Do all this on the bench if you can. Be sure to clean everything prior to and then following assembly. That way, any future seepage from a boot will be readily apparent. Be sure to clean the tub over the inner joints and the wheelhouse liner too. Often the first evidence of a failing boot is the black grease strip that's flung out radially from the failing boot. You might not see a crack in a boot rib right away, but the black grease stripe will get your attention if it's new.
HTH.
The inner splines are completely contained between the boot and the end cap. Use CV joint grease to coat the splines prior to sliding the joint onto the shaft, then install the circlip. You've already packed the joint itself with grease, and filled the cap prior to snapping it on to the end of the assembly. Slide bolts in with the security plates, and use a couple nuts ready hold everything together while you prepare and install the boot. Pack the boot about half full of grease after you slide it into position on the shaft, so there's a bit of space left to allow for expansion and flex in service. Then secure the boot at the big end with the larger clamp. On the shaft (small) end, slide the boot towards the joint and clean the shaft where the boot will seat. Draw the end of the boot back onto the cleaned area and install the small-end clamp.
Use the correct tool to secure the clamps. It's tempting to just grab the nippers and squeeze the clamp, but that bends the clamp up in the middle of the crimp, leaving three bends where there should be only the original two. the clamp tool has a pad in the middle that prevents that third bend as you crimp.
Do all this on the bench if you can. Be sure to clean everything prior to and then following assembly. That way, any future seepage from a boot will be readily apparent. Be sure to clean the tub over the inner joints and the wheelhouse liner too. Often the first evidence of a failing boot is the black grease strip that's flung out radially from the failing boot. You might not see a crack in a boot rib right away, but the black grease stripe will get your attention if it's new.
HTH.