Could be, but I learned it from the master, Jay Kempf.

JE
Still trying to grasp the pebble from the hand.

 

For those interested in the rebuild kit.

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...grpid=64557028

 

Here's a part number for a Master Cylinder Rebuilt kit, in case anybody needs that as well:

Clutch Master Rebuild Kit
Raybestos CMK1899

Andrew Schauer
1980 5-speed

 

One reason I went the route I did was that I didn't even want to *think* about blowing off the dreaded blue hose with pressure on the reservoir...

As far as crawling under the dash and disassembling the master cylinder or back filling by my method, guess which one is easier?

 

The power bleeders are on 2-3 week backorder so I just have to do the manual way and hope for the best. What I do is take some of the drip sytem black hose. I put a couple foot over the end of the bleeder. That way I can pump it cleanly back into any drill can.

 

when my clutch was non-functional, the method jim reccomended (pushing rod back into slave) worked perfectly. Clutch feels better than before.

 

RedUFO-- It is just a bug sprayer with a hose running through the cap.

Take a look at http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/we...kebleeder.html for a write-up on how I did mine. The text on the openinng page about adding a gasket layer applies to Explorers, so ignor it. The descriptions and diagrams are for the 928-specific one that I made. The ATE cap is common to a lot of mid-80's VW models so shouldn't be too hard to source locally if you don't have time to get one shipped from Jim or Jeannie.

Also--knowing what I know now, I would have gone for a smaller sprayer. Except for the cap itself, all the parts and pieces came from the shelves at Home Depot. You caould probably even add a fancy pressure gauge too if you wanted...

 

Just an afterthought, the tubing connections are toward the front of the car on the cylinders. If you park *uphill* it should assist in the bleeding process!

 

A word of caution if you decide to build your own power bleeder. When you pump up the 'garden sprayer' to build pressure, you can introduce air bubbles into the fluid from the bottom of the 'pump'. If the pickup tube is too close to the 'pump' bottom, that air gets picked up and run into your system...just the opposite of what you're trying to do. To eliminate this, I used a very sophisticated fix....duct taped a cheap plastic cup to the bottom of the 'pump' so that no air was introduced into the fluid...into the cup and thus the 'empty' part of the canister. After costing out the parts, I think it's cheaper and better to just buy the pressure bleeder..even has a gauge on it.

Jim

 

I have had problems with the blue hose between the brake master and clutch master leaking when pressurized. I guess I have been lucky with the push the slave in by hand method.

This might be an easier method of getting the air out of the master: put a vacuum source on the brake master using a modified cap. Shops use their AC vacuum pump. The Mightyvac might work. Shops say it works like magic. And a lot easier and less messy than pulling the master rod out.
Air tends to rise in fluid. Thats why it is difficult to try to bleed the air out of the master by bleeding down at the slave. You are trying to pump the air down and out of the slave. The vacuum helps the air out the top. The way it naturally wants to go.