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Old 01-02-2020, 11:22 PM
  #31  
Geo55
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Jetson8859, your PN's are exactly the same as mine. Thank you for the trouble you went through. I am planning on making a fixture for either the lathe or the CNC and taking enough material off so that it just fits in snug. Thank you everyone fort your input. you guys are what makes rennlist great.
Old 01-03-2020, 04:38 PM
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davek9
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+ on the Glue solution, I use a blob of Hot Glue on each tab, never lost one in over 20 years
Also easily to remove when getting new rubber fitted

Dave K
Old 01-03-2020, 05:26 PM
  #33  
Geo55
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Originally Posted by whiteNSXs
Geo,
I assume your center caps fit the rear wheels perfectly? My own experiences have been that the center caps of this style fit across many styles of OEM wheels such as the 996 C4S Twisties, the Carrera Lightweight wheels and the 17 incher Cup I wheels. I have a feeling that, in your situation, you front and rear wheels have different sized holes.
Steve
Steve, I will check when I remove all the wheels. You could be right!
Old 01-03-2020, 05:41 PM
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So I took the cap in question to the shop today and fixtured it in the lathe and turned it down to 3.011 +/- .002 inches (which is just over the I.D. I measured of the hole which was 3.010"). I will see how it fits when I get to the garage. So Dave K, where do you put the hot glue when you glue the cap in? Do you glue the tabs to the wheel? Thanks again evweeryone. I will post a picture when installed in the wheel.


Old 01-05-2020, 07:18 PM
  #35  
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Went to the shop toda to fit the cap. It fit flush (really close at least) but found that the prongs on the inside were not even close to where they were supposed to sit. Maybe I should say that the wheel does not fit the cap prongs.



You can see that the cap sits just above the rim. But trust me it is bottomed out.


Not sure if you can see it bit there is is about 5 mm clearance between the bottom of the nubs on the cap and the lip on the the rim. So theoretically it could pop out 5 mm before the nubs catch. Probably a good idea to glue or silicone the cap in place. If I come up with an ingenious fix I will reply to this post. Till then Thank you everybody for your excellent ideas and suggestions.
Old 04-03-2021, 10:02 AM
  #36  
Zirconocene
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Sorry to bring this up again but I find myself going through this same pain.

I rescued and rehabbed some of the old style center caps (the kind with the riveted, metal cup that sits on the back of the cap) thinking that I'd be good to go on my new-to-me OZ Alleggerita wheels. They don't fit.

I bit the bullet and ordered some new center caps from Tire Rack which were advertised as OZ center caps with a Porsche crest. What I received is a 993 part number: 4 concave wheel center caps.

Note: I still need to take off the wheels and investigate clearances there with things off the car, so maybe there's a way to get things set that way.

However, would all this be avoided by moving to the GTS wheel bearing caps? The look like they're shorter overall in height and PET shows the same wheel hub part number on the GTS so I'm having trouble foreseeing problems. That doesn't mean much though, which is why I'm asking here: Is this the way?

Thanks
Old 04-03-2021, 02:16 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Went through the same issue with my Fiske FM10 wheels. Came with flat center caps that would

not clear the S4 wheel bearing caps. Fikse did not have the mid level height caps. I found a set of 4 that were good enough, but the etching was terrible. I had my machine shop remove enough material to get a nice flat surface. I then had them polished. Plan is to laser etch them.



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