ROW 1978, potential US inspection problems?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
ROW 1978, potential US inspection problems?
Petrol Blue 1978 928
The journey begins...
I combed through the forums a few times but couldn't get a direct answer so I'm post the question outright here. My question involves the very recently imported ROW Porsche getting an inspection sticker here in the US, specifically Vermont. To the experts out there, what should I be worried about? Is there anything that I can or should expect the mechanics at our local shop to disagree with about the car considering it is originally from Europe. I've seen on some forums that maybe there is something muffler related that is essential, or perhaps the bumpers aren't to US standards, or anything at all? Just want to prepare for the inevitable 'no' from the car shop. I know there are other things that I will need to fix anyways, but just figured I run the question past a few of the people that have had this experience already.
Thanks in advance.
and as a reward for your help here are a few pics before I drove it (illegally) to the gas station to conclusively discover that my gas gauge is not functioning 100%! Filled 10 gallons, pump stopped, figured it was full, drove off and noticed it only showed half full, then empty when going up a hill...
Pictures aren't great, but here they are...Thanks!
Car is still very dirty...
Vin Number and such
The journey begins...
I combed through the forums a few times but couldn't get a direct answer so I'm post the question outright here. My question involves the very recently imported ROW Porsche getting an inspection sticker here in the US, specifically Vermont. To the experts out there, what should I be worried about? Is there anything that I can or should expect the mechanics at our local shop to disagree with about the car considering it is originally from Europe. I've seen on some forums that maybe there is something muffler related that is essential, or perhaps the bumpers aren't to US standards, or anything at all? Just want to prepare for the inevitable 'no' from the car shop. I know there are other things that I will need to fix anyways, but just figured I run the question past a few of the people that have had this experience already.
Thanks in advance.
and as a reward for your help here are a few pics before I drove it (illegally) to the gas station to conclusively discover that my gas gauge is not functioning 100%! Filled 10 gallons, pump stopped, figured it was full, drove off and noticed it only showed half full, then empty when going up a hill...
Pictures aren't great, but here they are...Thanks!
Car is still very dirty...
Vin Number and such
The following users liked this post:
Jadz928 (12-11-2019)
#2
Very cool! I had euro #622. Great car you have there. I had no issue in NY for inspection, no smog here so emissions weren't an issue. Side markers were more than NY required so that was great. I needed a reverse light switch but that was it.
So for fuel gauge, as others will tell you, the in tank unit has two TINY wires the float rides in and they corrode. Mine didn't work past 3/4 fill ever. Roger (928srus) had fuel sender units on a great sale for Black Friday. I'd touch base with him ASAP and grab one . You can try removing yours once it's under 3/4 tank and checking/cleaning it. Carefully inspect seal at the top or you'll stink like fuel inside the car after reassembly. Awesome car you have.
So for fuel gauge, as others will tell you, the in tank unit has two TINY wires the float rides in and they corrode. Mine didn't work past 3/4 fill ever. Roger (928srus) had fuel sender units on a great sale for Black Friday. I'd touch base with him ASAP and grab one . You can try removing yours once it's under 3/4 tank and checking/cleaning it. Carefully inspect seal at the top or you'll stink like fuel inside the car after reassembly. Awesome car you have.
#3
Rennlist Member
I don't know what will be required, but when these cars were converted at the time, there was a steel front to back brace that is inside the doors of the US cars that was not used on the ROW cars, and which sometimes had to be added. On some I have seen a painted broom handle was used.
#4
Rennlist Member
Given the age and that you just imported it, you shouldn't have to worry about any Federal regulations compliance (lighting, door beams, emissions equipment, speedometer, etc.). I think it is 25 years old - Google can probably give you specifics, but I think any car over 25 years old is exempt. It was only when these cars were newer and imported that they were subjected to federalization.
State safety inspection requirements should be available on your state's website, and I doubt you will have to make any functional modifications to pass (other than fixing something not working that it requires - lights, horn, brakes, tires, etc. - just like for any other car being inspected in VT. State registration may be a bit more challenging, since the VIN will not be in the US database. You may need to take it somewhere to have the VIN officially confirmed. Did you receive any importation paperwork? That may suffice.
FWIW - my Euro, imported when new, and lightly federalized, passes MA inspection every year with Euro H4 headlights, no side markers, and no US emissions equipment.
These are my thoughts, only based on what I have gleaned from reading other's experiences. Let us know how it goes. Nice car, by the way!
State safety inspection requirements should be available on your state's website, and I doubt you will have to make any functional modifications to pass (other than fixing something not working that it requires - lights, horn, brakes, tires, etc. - just like for any other car being inspected in VT. State registration may be a bit more challenging, since the VIN will not be in the US database. You may need to take it somewhere to have the VIN officially confirmed. Did you receive any importation paperwork? That may suffice.
FWIW - my Euro, imported when new, and lightly federalized, passes MA inspection every year with Euro H4 headlights, no side markers, and no US emissions equipment.
These are my thoughts, only based on what I have gleaned from reading other's experiences. Let us know how it goes. Nice car, by the way!
Last edited by BRB-83-911SC; 12-11-2019 at 06:27 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
25 Year "rule" the car to import. Easy, done.
Now, for your state registration. This site helps a little (and for all other states)
https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/ca...ompendium.html
State link for classic plates:
https://dmv.vermont.gov/registration...que-exhibition
And another perspective on how "Car friendly" is your state:
(Vermont is #46 OF 50 ON THIS LIST)
https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...-is-your-state
Now, for your state registration. This site helps a little (and for all other states)
https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/ca...ompendium.html
State link for classic plates:
https://dmv.vermont.gov/registration...que-exhibition
And another perspective on how "Car friendly" is your state:
(Vermont is #46 OF 50 ON THIS LIST)
https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...-is-your-state
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
25 Year "rule" the car to import. Easy, done.
Now, for your state registration. This site helps a little (and for all other states)
https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/ca...ompendium.html
Now, for your state registration. This site helps a little (and for all other states)
https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/ca...ompendium.html
State safety inspection requirements should be available on your state's website, and I doubt you will have to make any functional modifications to pass (other than fixing something not working that it requires - lights, horn, brakes, tires, etc. - just like for any other car being inspected in VT. State registration may be a bit more challenging, since the VIN will not be in the US database. You may need to take it somewhere to have the VIN officially confirmed. Did you receive any importation paperwork? That may suffice.
Very cool! I had euro #622. Great car you have there. I had no issue in NY for inspection, no smog here so emissions weren't an issue. Side markers were more than NY required so that was great. I needed a reverse light switch but that was it.
So for fuel gauge, as others will tell you, the in tank unit has two TINY wires the float rides in and they corrode. Mine didn't work past 3/4 fill ever. Roger (928srus) had fuel sender units on a great sale for Black Friday. I'd touch base with him ASAP and grab one . You can try removing yours once it's under 3/4 tank and checking/cleaning it. Carefully inspect seal at the top or you'll stink like fuel inside the car after reassembly. Awesome car you have.
So for fuel gauge, as others will tell you, the in tank unit has two TINY wires the float rides in and they corrode. Mine didn't work past 3/4 fill ever. Roger (928srus) had fuel sender units on a great sale for Black Friday. I'd touch base with him ASAP and grab one . You can try removing yours once it's under 3/4 tank and checking/cleaning it. Carefully inspect seal at the top or you'll stink like fuel inside the car after reassembly. Awesome car you have.
I looked at the fuel senders and they don't seem to be on sale (though I don't know how much they normally run for) but I might try cleaning everything up first just in case there is like a loose connection somewhere or something. I doubt it would be that easy for me but oh well. Thanks!
#7
Rennlist Member
There is a very good how-to on the fuel sender by Sharkskin somewhere here.....Mine had its wires coated with shellac from sitting - clean CAREFULLY - fragile. Check out Sharkskins notes.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k