Pistons and Rods FS
02-25-2004, 01:21 PM
#1
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Pistons and Rods FS
I have my 89S4 pistons and rods still, and it would be good if I could sell them.
8 VGC pistons, the skirt coating is mostly still there, and the engine had 75k on it when I took them out. The rings are still on, and the pins are still there too: 200.00 or so.
8 perfect rods, 200.00 or so.
Just email me or PM me. I wonder if ebay would work for this?
Brendan
8 VGC pistons, the skirt coating is mostly still there, and the engine had 75k on it when I took them out. The rings are still on, and the pins are still there too: 200.00 or so.
8 perfect rods, 200.00 or so.
Just email me or PM me. I wonder if ebay would work for this?
Brendan
02-25-2004, 03:16 PM
#3
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Brendan I believe that when the Spaniards landed in Mexico to begin their "conquest"......they burned their ships . There was no "going back ". I have to admire your resolve ......
02-25-2004, 04:44 PM
#4
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Tony: Tolerance Groupp 2 on those pistons. They are marked for cylinder numbers, but I suppose that wouldn't matter for someone else, huh?
Jim: I've been burning the boats for some time. That way, there is no way to wimp out. The plans change, but they ALWAYS move forward.
I will probably end up using stock FOrged rods from the early 928s (if I can prove they are forged), or the early 944 turbos. I already have four. The issue whether the reworking costs to make the rods suitable (bushing, resize, shotpeen, crack test, press in ARP bolts) will get close to the 1800 needed for OEM sized Pauter rods (1800 dollars).
I finally found a place that said the things I wanted to hear about sleeving a 928 block, so thats good - and they are LOCAL. Always a good thing.
Jim: I've been burning the boats for some time. That way, there is no way to wimp out. The plans change, but they ALWAYS move forward.
I will probably end up using stock FOrged rods from the early 928s (if I can prove they are forged), or the early 944 turbos. I already have four. The issue whether the reworking costs to make the rods suitable (bushing, resize, shotpeen, crack test, press in ARP bolts) will get close to the 1800 needed for OEM sized Pauter rods (1800 dollars).
I finally found a place that said the things I wanted to hear about sleeving a 928 block, so thats good - and they are LOCAL. Always a good thing.
02-25-2004, 06:08 PM
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Brendan:
In regards to proving if rods are forged, if you are not sure for whatever reason, there is a good reliable method of finding out. You can inspect the suspect parts parting lines.
For those who don't know, the parting line is a ridge or raised line formed where the two, or more, pieces of a forging die or casting mold meet-up while metal is being formed within; it's kind of like a seam (or at least looks kind of like one).
On a forged part, the die pieces tend not to butt-up completely, and the ridge can be very wide, easily 1/4" or more. You may find that the ridge has been ground down a bit because it would otherwise be so protrusive as a result of forging being so quick and non-precise. Even if it's ground down, the line will still be raised and very visible, and still be wide.
On a cast part, the line is very thin and very precise; perhaps at the most an 1/8". Cast parting lines are almost never ground down as they are typically so unobtrusive and clean.
The exceptions to the above is if sombody has gone out of their way to remove the parting lines, as in polishing the part... which is a good idea in most every cast or forged part, as removing parting lines removes stress risers. Of course removing the parting line makes it almost impossible to tell if someting is forged or cast, unless you still have the part number. In such a case, without a part number, the only reliable way of determining cast or forged is by have parts grain flow examined... or you could break the part and look at the crystal structure, which doesn't do your part much good, lol.
I'm at work, so I didn't have a chance to search for photo examples, but you could probably search on Google or Yahoo for Cast vs. Forged and find some pics.
This method pretty much applies to any manufacturer, and all common forged and cast metal working, (I'm sure with exceptions). One possible exception is forged-powdered-metal connecting rods. I speculate that FPM rods will have a relatively narrow parting line, but I don't think it's as clean and narrow as a cast parts parting line. That is strictly speculation on my part as it's been a while since I studied FPM technology
Sorry if you knew all that already, if I got too car geeky, for butting in, and for being long-winded. I just think that this might be useful to somebody some day while walking through a swap-meet, lol.
Regards,
Abdul
In regards to proving if rods are forged, if you are not sure for whatever reason, there is a good reliable method of finding out. You can inspect the suspect parts parting lines.
For those who don't know, the parting line is a ridge or raised line formed where the two, or more, pieces of a forging die or casting mold meet-up while metal is being formed within; it's kind of like a seam (or at least looks kind of like one).
On a forged part, the die pieces tend not to butt-up completely, and the ridge can be very wide, easily 1/4" or more. You may find that the ridge has been ground down a bit because it would otherwise be so protrusive as a result of forging being so quick and non-precise. Even if it's ground down, the line will still be raised and very visible, and still be wide.
On a cast part, the line is very thin and very precise; perhaps at the most an 1/8". Cast parting lines are almost never ground down as they are typically so unobtrusive and clean.
The exceptions to the above is if sombody has gone out of their way to remove the parting lines, as in polishing the part... which is a good idea in most every cast or forged part, as removing parting lines removes stress risers. Of course removing the parting line makes it almost impossible to tell if someting is forged or cast, unless you still have the part number. In such a case, without a part number, the only reliable way of determining cast or forged is by have parts grain flow examined... or you could break the part and look at the crystal structure, which doesn't do your part much good, lol.
I'm at work, so I didn't have a chance to search for photo examples, but you could probably search on Google or Yahoo for Cast vs. Forged and find some pics.
This method pretty much applies to any manufacturer, and all common forged and cast metal working, (I'm sure with exceptions). One possible exception is forged-powdered-metal connecting rods. I speculate that FPM rods will have a relatively narrow parting line, but I don't think it's as clean and narrow as a cast parts parting line. That is strictly speculation on my part as it's been a while since I studied FPM technology
Sorry if you knew all that already, if I got too car geeky, for butting in, and for being long-winded. I just think that this might be useful to somebody some day while walking through a swap-meet, lol.
Regards,
Abdul
02-25-2004, 06:35 PM
#6
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No that was great Abdul. So I guess that means our upper A-arms are forged aluminum then
The part number differenciation IS a good way, escept for the 928 rods, but I think any with the ARST part number are forged. If someone could correct me, that would be great.
The part number differenciation IS a good way, escept for the 928 rods, but I think any with the ARST part number are forged. If someone could correct me, that would be great.
