Hi all,

Working on bringing my 87 back to life since I miss it and have not driven it for a few years (like 6 or so!).

Before I parked it to sleep, my AC would not engage when I press the button and it did not illuminate either. I recall one day while driving it, I had to hold the button engaged with my finger to keep the compressor engaged so I suspect a contact problem inside it. Last I checked the R12 was fine.

Is there any way to repair this component or do I need a new Central Indicator (928 641 609 15)?

 

ooops...i didnt read your entire post.....i think you're probably right about the contact inside the switch....i haven't done surgery on one of those yet

 

Check fuse 17. Check the fresh air blower relay in position X. Those supply power to the AC controller and the AC button. If the cabin blower runs then these are OK.

The AC button has a wimpy connector with no retainer, at least on my car. That connector pulls off easily, and is easy to pull off if you happen to have the radio bucket out. To check you may be able to look up inside from a removed side panel on the console, but the safest/surest check is to remove the console H trim piece, the the screws that hold the little AC button console in place. Use a magnetic driver and tuck a rag or towel under the section so you don't lose the screws into the abyss. You can pull the little button console towards the rear of the car an inch or two and see if the connector is still attached there. Takes ten minutes all in to find out. Your statement that pushing on the button would previously get it to work sometimes could easily be that connector coming loose; it's a cost-free and relatively effortless look to check.

 

dr bob.....i think you read it the same way i did initially....but if he's pushing the button down and getting contact, which evidently breaks continuity when he stops pushing, could it be anything other than the contacts in the switch? if i remember correctly, there are 4 wires on the back of the switch....i think. does it have both a momentary and toggle contact inside????

I am having trouble visualizing how the connector might be sort of almost making contact and actually makes contact when he's pushing....but then again, I've had the same type of things happen to me.

 

Looking at Most Likely Causes, that connector seems to come loose whenever any work is done in the area in the console. Easy enough to check. The little wire bundle goes forward and right, so is vulnerable if you happen to be replacing some window switch wiring. The radio is immediately above, so wires from the back of that will tangle in the switch wiring and pull the connector off or almost-off.

The fuse 17 and blower motor relay supply power to the switch, and also to the cabin blower. If the cabin blower fan runs, the relay and fuse are OK. If no fan blower, check fuse 17 and the relay.

The fuse at 17 is huge compared with a lot of the wiring it protects, and that includes the small wires to and from the little switch and light. A pinched wire near the switch could easily melt long before that fuse starts to get warm. Greg puts a fuse in the smaller wiring to the compressor clutch loop from the control head relay for exactly this reason. If there was a practical way to install, service and document another 1A fuse just for the AC button connections and lamp, it would be awesome. But there isn't really a good way. If the fuse at 17 and the blower relay are OK (blower runs) and no light at the button, the light in the button should come on when depressed. If not, verify the connector before digging in for the melted wiring. That's my diagnostic thinking process anyway.

 

Thank you all for the feedback. I am awaiting for some general maintenance parts to be shipped to me and will take it to my local mechanic to get it up and running and I think I will have to do the troubleshooting at home per Dr. Bob's sequence. There is zero support locally for those cars... so have to pretty much wing it solo with the Rennlist support group