Does anyone ever manage to torque up the pulley bolt to the exact spec?

The people at stutgart must be having a laugh. Not 215 or 220, but 218, Why?
My torque wrench goes up to 150 lb/ft , my arms maybe add another 10-20, and for good measure my leg probably gets another 20/40. Does anyone actually try to get it bang on, and do the make wrenches that go that high?
Anyway i settle for whats on it now.

What about that pin that locates into the tentioner roller arm from the tentioner. 8 hours it took today to fit the water pump and put everything back together. Two hours alone to get the pin into the arm. There must be an easier way to do it. I ended up easing on the arm, inching the belt back, and once the pin was up on the arm i tied a piece of string round the pin and gradually pulled it back till it located in its cavity. someone tell me that there is an easier way......................Jim

 

All the time. I cannot speak for The Empire, but, here in the Colonies, you can rent a 3/4" drive torque wrench that goes to 250 ft-lbs for $10.

Fit the entire tensioner assembly last - after you've threaded the belt.

 

David is correct and do be sure you have that crank bolt tight ...many people have had them come off at speed ....if you are very , very lucky it and the pulley decide to fly downward ........

 

Thanks David... I did not have the tentioner off, It looked as though it had been recently overhauled, new boot + clamp, but i did flush it through with new gear oil to see what state the old oil was in, and it looked pretty good. Thats why i struggled with the pin. If i had ordered a new tentioner gasket with the rest of the stuff from 928 intl i would probably have taken it off, just to make life easier............Jim

 

No offense intended btw. I should probably have written "North of Hadrian's Wall"

http://www.hadrians-wall.org/

 

I've been at the four-hands-needed-to-mess-with-pin stage too many times. I'm not going there again! I'd rather pay the $2 for the gasket and get in done in 10 minutes!

 

This was my first attempt at the timing belt/water pump battle. Next time i will know better and get the gasket for the tentioner. I might even invest in a bigger torque wrench.....Thanks....Jim

 

....and I was hoping to see some pics and procedural text describing the "string method"
Actually, with the copper strap off, the carrier arm can be threaded around the belt and engaged correctly - with the tensioner body already mounted: now if I could remember how...

 

When I took my pulley bolt off I managed to get it off without a breaker bar. I never knew the Craftsman could bend so much. You can buy a decent Craftmand 250 lb torque. I don't think they are that expensive.

The P.O. told me he was cruisin a intertate speed and the bolt backed out. Must have been as Jim described. Luckily, he recognized something was up and pulled it to the side and got it towed. The shop that did it had to rebuilt the engine! Doh!

Does anyone use a light Locktight on the crank bolt? or do you just intall at the torque. I know the WSM doesn't say to use Locktight, but I figure why not the added security.

 

I have the correct torque wrench and a big f*&^%$# pipe. I intend to just use the specified torque, with no eh....."glue".

BTW, on a farm the "BFP" is actually a precision tool that comes in several sizes...........

 

The tensioner gaskets should always be ordered in pairs...

(Seriously - it is REALLY easy to screw one up while installing it, and it certainly is nice to have a spare!)

 

Haven't seen you in a dog's age around here Wally, where you been keeping yourself?

 

Gretch, i've actually got one of those BFP's. It has been custom fitted ,to just clear the bonnet (hood for those in the U.S. ), a must for removing the pulley bolt. I did check the WM for reference to locktight, and as mentioned there is no reference to its use on this bolt.Wally i will bear this in mind and order two gaskets the next time i have to do this job. Cheers all.........................Jim

P.S Went to two of the garages in our village today , with the intention of getting them to finnish torquing up the bolt. The first had a t.w the same as the one i have, 150 lb/ft. The other didn't even have a t.w. shameful when you think this was a garage / m.o.t station, and people take there cars to these places expecting a "professional job.

 

Actualy, a 1/2" torque wrench works nicely enough for this bolt.

You can get up so that your chest is on the fender, grab the hanndle of the wrench with both hands and easily put the torque on the bolt. Even 135 lb me can do it. Which is intersting, becuase it takes a bit more force to pull 218 ft*lb on the bolt than I weigh.

 

Easy solution to the problem of getting the pin to the dimple on the tensioner arm:

Install belt as normal but do not put it on the passenger side cam sprocket yet (do make sure it's tight everywhere else). Now install the tensioner arm - this will be easy as the belt is slack. Once the arm is in place, put the belt on the cam sprocket. The belt has enough slack so that it will easily slip onto the sprocket. Just make sure the passenger side cam sprocket is aligned correctly before putting on the belt as it has a tendency to slip to a different position.

Best regards
Niklas Kampe
928 S4 1987
Finland, Europe