Jason89s4

Dude, I'd prefer to point and laugh and say "that's awesome!"
-Jason

karl ruiter

Personally, I would really prefer Delrin to ABS for this application. It is harder and wears better. I like ABS anytime I want something a little more ductile...its kinda smooshy. Like if you want to press inserts into it. Delrin, like Poly carb will crack if left with expanding or bending forces in the long term, where ABS will flow with it. But where you want to maintain tight tolerances with load and temperature, you want Delrin. Plus, it mills so nicely.

Mark Anderson

The factory bushings have intended play fore and aft. Just not side to side. Most aftermarket bushing have zero play. I personally do not care for the way it shifts that way but to each their own

captainOCD

These bushings were pretty sloppy all around. They were loose in the coupler housing and loose all around the rod and sides of the splined piece that connects to the torque tube. I attached it to the rod on the torque tube and wasn't happy with the amount of slop at the shifter. Not upset about it or anything, it was a used coupler so I was expecting it to come with used bushings.

I'll give these abs ones a try, and if they wind up too tight or transmitting too much vibration I'll swap them out. Just thought I'd experiment with materials I already had on hand.

captainOCD

I'm shamelessly sharing these photos in this thread too in hopes that if I did something wrong here someone notices before I put this on the car (planning to tomorrow). I think I have everything back in the right orientation based on pictures around here and based on how it was assembled when it was given to me (which I trust far less).

I didn't make any effort to adjust the intermediate plate yet. From what I was reading in the wsm and around here it seems there are multiple ways and some work out differently for some people varying from prying the H pieces all the way back and pumping the pedal to measuring and adjusting them. It does seem like the adjustment needs to be such that the intermediate plate is centered between the two discs when the clutch is disengaged, no?

With all these parts I got another lower bellhousing, and it seems like it's identical to the automatic one? If so, I think I might try cutting a window in it similar to what I saw mrmerlin (I think) do somewhere. That enabled having the clutch depressed by a helper, and being able to adjust the intermediate plate without having to try and pry back the release arm or something else that knowing my luck would end in personal injury. Does that seem like a good course of action.

I used CRC high temp moly grease that I had already. Seems like it meets all the specs of the optimoly, and I know from experience it doesn't run and get on brake pads

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captainOCD

The car is driving now with the 5 speed. It shifts smoothly into every gear with no noises or grinding.

There is a really soft sounding coming from the torque tube (sounds similar to the auto when running) with the clutch engaged and trans in neutral, but given that all the bearings are new I think it's ok.

The clutch is a bit more aggressive than I'm used to but it is new. More throttle makes for smoother takeoffs.

Seems like the adjustment of the intermediate plate is good. I pushed the adjusters all the way back with the clutch engaged and looking at them through the hole I cut in one bellhousing it seemed to be a uniform distance from each disc. I was able to turn. The driveshaft with one finger when it was disengaged.