Fuel lines
#4
I would think you would want to replace all the engine compartment fuel lines while you are at it. You can't always see the failure points on these things. When I got mine, the PO was doing some work on it prior to sending it, so I had some of Greg's fuel lines sent, even though they all looked good from a cursory examination. Sure enough, one of the old lines was compromised, we just didn't see it until it had been removed.
#6
#7
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
The photo appears to show fire extinguisher powder residue. Might be interesting to hear some of the car's history. Might also be interesting to do some more clean-up there especially if that is in fact dry powder extinguisher residue, as it's more than a bit corrosive to aluminum and electrical connections.
The hose you are pointing to is the fuel pressure regulator to fuel cooler hose. The fuel cooler is that cylinder clamped to the firewall, with AC connections on the end and the two fuel connections from the bottom. The other fuel connection runs to a steel return line that proceeds down the firewall then to the right side of the tub and back to the fuel tank. Both of these hoses should be replaced if they are original, as should all the other fuel hoses in the car. At 30+ years old and a life in a hot engine bay, they pose a serious risk of fire.
Many of the engine bay and rear fuel tank and pump hoses are still available as OEM or factory replacement pieces. Check with your/our favorite 928 parts vendors. Where original pieces are
no longer available, there are some very robust modern replacement pieces that will get the job done safely.
The hose you point to is readily available, as is its partner to the tank return line. Under that hose is a U-shaped section that's a bit more of a challenge, as it connects the rear of the fuel rails via the fuel pressure regulator and the rear damper. The original bend radius is too small for anything but a formed hose without risk of collapse, so the replacement from Greg Brown uses right-angle connectors and fittings. This is just one example of how the original design is improved with some modern products and thinking.
Contact 928 International in Anaheim, Roger at 928srus in the DFW area, Greg Brown at Precision Motorwerks in Orange California. Any of them will give you the parts guidance you need.
The hose you are pointing to is the fuel pressure regulator to fuel cooler hose. The fuel cooler is that cylinder clamped to the firewall, with AC connections on the end and the two fuel connections from the bottom. The other fuel connection runs to a steel return line that proceeds down the firewall then to the right side of the tub and back to the fuel tank. Both of these hoses should be replaced if they are original, as should all the other fuel hoses in the car. At 30+ years old and a life in a hot engine bay, they pose a serious risk of fire.
Many of the engine bay and rear fuel tank and pump hoses are still available as OEM or factory replacement pieces. Check with your/our favorite 928 parts vendors. Where original pieces are
no longer available, there are some very robust modern replacement pieces that will get the job done safely.
The hose you point to is readily available, as is its partner to the tank return line. Under that hose is a U-shaped section that's a bit more of a challenge, as it connects the rear of the fuel rails via the fuel pressure regulator and the rear damper. The original bend radius is too small for anything but a formed hose without risk of collapse, so the replacement from Greg Brown uses right-angle connectors and fittings. This is just one example of how the original design is improved with some modern products and thinking.
Contact 928 International in Anaheim, Roger at 928srus in the DFW area, Greg Brown at Precision Motorwerks in Orange California. Any of them will give you the parts guidance you need.
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#10
I bought the car the day after my graduation party for $2000 in St Cloud, Mn. The car was taken apart in preparation fir paint so i have been putting it back together piece by piece since june. The PO did a lot of body work on the car making the bumpers seamless and deleting trim and adding a different gas cap. The car was painted about a year ago and when they were taking it out of the booth the car started on fire but they put it out quickly and there was minimum damage. They werent able to paint the sunroof or spoiler because they decided to stop working on the car. I planned on wrapping them with carbon fiber. The car ran and idled rough when ingot it but after cleaning injectors and changing wires it ran much better! A few days ago i removed the intake and cleaned underneath that. I replaced both knock sensors and now i am working on fuel hoses so that it wont start on fire again. I plan on doing timing belt and water pump this fall/winter when the car is in storage.
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jcorenman (07-24-2019)
#11
A question and an observation: $2000 is a low price for a 928- what was wrong with it before the fire? And (donning flamesuit) I very much like the seamless bumper treatment. The dual exhaust not so much maybe, but some interesting ideas here. More history would be very interesting if you know it.
#12
A question and an observation: $2000 is a low price for a 928- what was wrong with it before the fire? And (donning flamesuit) I very much like the seamless bumper treatment. The dual exhaust not so much maybe, but some interesting ideas here. More history would be very interesting if you know it.
#13
Ummm.... I hate to be a dose of reality here.... but you are several thousand dollars in parts away from having that running well. Every single bit in that engine bay that is made of, or contains, rubber or plastic probably needs to be replaced. Every sensor. Every hose. Every rubber or plastic vacuum line. Injectors need to be sent out or replaced. All four harnesses (LH, front main, ABS, lights) need to be very carefully examined and 'ohm'd out' to rule out damage or just flat-out replaced. The front main and light harness carry unfused power direct from the battery. Damage to those harnesses can very easily start another fire.
What did it start out life as? I know it's 87+. But what year? Transaxle type? How many miles?
What did it start out life as? I know it's 87+. But what year? Transaxle type? How many miles?
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Shark2626 (04-19-2020)
#14
Ummm.... I hate to be a dose of reality here.... but you are several thousand dollars in parts away from having that running well. Every single bit in that engine bay that is made of, or contains, rubber or plastic probably needs to be replaced. Every sensor. Every hose. Every rubber or plastic vacuum line. Injectors need to be sent out or replaced. All four harnesses (LH, front main, ABS, lights) need to be very carefully examined and 'ohm'd out' to rule out damage or just flat-out replaced. The front main and light harness carry unfused power direct from the battery. Damage to those harnesses can very easily start another fire.
What did it start out life as? I know it's 87+. But what year? Transaxle type? How many miles?
What did it start out life as? I know it's 87+. But what year? Transaxle type? How many miles?