Best weight reduction advice
07-24-2019, 07:04 PM
#31
Poly windows
Yes, good weight savings there... but-
as previously said, over time they fade, scratch, don’t hold the factory shape forever. My car is a good example of those issues.
door windows are an issue. You can take the “64/65 Dodge/Plymouth race HEMI car” route:
lexan windows, remove the window crank mechanism (electrics as well), and attach a strap with a “snap” assembly to pull the window up and secure. To let down, just unsnap and the strap slides back into the door cavity. Carl Fausett did this with his 928 race car. Mine currently has the factory door glass, but no mechanism or electrics. The mechanism is welded shut, window glass siliconed to the frame. If this is not a race car, you need to do the strap thing.
as to all other weight reduction ideas, you’re headed in the right direction, but until you start removing the entire floor pan, firewall, headliner, all interior parts, and more....AND the entire drivetrain... you won’t achieve much. That said, a tube frame and cage keeps the car together....
probably not as extensive as you are thinking, but I can assure you the distance is 3500lbs down to 2250lbs. In the drag racing world, there’s a tenth of a second quicker ET for every 100 lbs reduction— 1.25 seconds in my example, all other things being equal.
its a heck of a lot of work stripping one down to a tub, and going back to something you can drive. So... if this is a street car, I’d recommend trashing the idea of weight reduction and concentrate of building horsepower. Ex: Danny Humphrey’s car is street legal (for the most part), weighs 3500/3700 lbs, (maybe more?) but has a 540ci blown big block Chevy with 3 stage NOS system. Probably near 2500hp by the time he turns the juice on.... It runs the 1/8 th at around 4.60’s near 159-160mph.
Totally bad ***, but a huge project... I digress.
one item: side marker lights. I did this previously. Remove the light and associated wiring, replaced the holes with welded steel, grinding work, repaint blah blah blah... weight savings? None. Zero. But it looked cool... lol
have a clear cut goal, execute, and enjoy.
as previously said, over time they fade, scratch, don’t hold the factory shape forever. My car is a good example of those issues.
door windows are an issue. You can take the “64/65 Dodge/Plymouth race HEMI car” route:
lexan windows, remove the window crank mechanism (electrics as well), and attach a strap with a “snap” assembly to pull the window up and secure. To let down, just unsnap and the strap slides back into the door cavity. Carl Fausett did this with his 928 race car. Mine currently has the factory door glass, but no mechanism or electrics. The mechanism is welded shut, window glass siliconed to the frame. If this is not a race car, you need to do the strap thing.
as to all other weight reduction ideas, you’re headed in the right direction, but until you start removing the entire floor pan, firewall, headliner, all interior parts, and more....AND the entire drivetrain... you won’t achieve much. That said, a tube frame and cage keeps the car together....
probably not as extensive as you are thinking, but I can assure you the distance is 3500lbs down to 2250lbs. In the drag racing world, there’s a tenth of a second quicker ET for every 100 lbs reduction— 1.25 seconds in my example, all other things being equal.
its a heck of a lot of work stripping one down to a tub, and going back to something you can drive. So... if this is a street car, I’d recommend trashing the idea of weight reduction and concentrate of building horsepower. Ex: Danny Humphrey’s car is street legal (for the most part), weighs 3500/3700 lbs, (maybe more?) but has a 540ci blown big block Chevy with 3 stage NOS system. Probably near 2500hp by the time he turns the juice on.... It runs the 1/8 th at around 4.60’s near 159-160mph.
Totally bad ***, but a huge project... I digress.
one item: side marker lights. I did this previously. Remove the light and associated wiring, replaced the holes with welded steel, grinding work, repaint blah blah blah... weight savings? None. Zero. But it looked cool... lol
have a clear cut goal, execute, and enjoy.
07-24-2019, 11:22 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, I agree with everyone and it's really fun to get all the input. What started this? There is an article in 000 magazine this issue about a 911 ( Singer) that was built for Mulholland. They call it "Mully". I guess it's only fun to drive on the twisty bits not so much fun as a long distance driver. I started out with this car as a restore comp package car. Then I was going to sell it. But now I'm thinking that I could make this into a fun hot rod " outlaw" that is a bit different from all the rest and done well. Fun project with everyones input which is very much appreciated. Watching Richard Attwood's video got me started. I don't want to campaign the car, but who knows.
I'm trying to find a balance between a Club Sport and Attwood's car. It's a 16v not a 32v. My 6.5 stroked 32v is quick but the 16v are different.
I'm trying to find a balance between a Club Sport and Attwood's car. It's a 16v not a 32v. My 6.5 stroked 32v is quick but the 16v are different.
07-24-2019, 11:38 PM
#33
The Parts Whisperer
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
In 1990 ( or so) I bought a wrecked 89 gt. I transplanted the drivetrain into a 1978 that I stripped down. On a shakedown drive a hopped up mustang challenged me into a street race ( never a good idea) and I Beat him several times. We pulled off to the side of the road and he asked me about what mods I had done. I told him it was a stock drive train which it was. He was shocked as he had modified just about every part he could . Light weight always feels good
07-25-2019, 10:58 AM
#34
Weight removal is like free HP. Hot rod magazine did a weight pair down on a caddy 30 years or so ago.Took a 17 second sled turned it into a mid 13 second machine with no powertrain mods.Great article.Others have copied it and even HRM did it to a corvette 10 years ago
07-25-2019, 12:13 PM
#36
