Cam front oil control seals?
#1
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I am going into do the next maintenance and need the two camshaft oil control seals for a 1984 US.I look in the WSM and they look like any other seal, but when I punch it in on Ebay to see the actual product, all I get is what looks like a delrin bushing or a whole top end kit. Who has them how much, and how quick can I get them?
Thank you
Thank you
#2
RL Community Team
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I bought mine from Roger at 928sRus. They're a rubber ribbed seal with a captured spring coil.
#3
Administrator - "Tyson"
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This is another area where ordering from a trusted / known 928 vendor is very important. There are "generic" seals being sold for this application elsewhere that will fit just fine, but they do not have the spring inside the seal. These will leak.
#4
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I'd get them from Roger, as he has successfully supplied them for me for at least 3 84 cars in the past.
Spring lined double lip seal, also a fine large O-ring that fits inside the housing... mine were all carbonized and have to be chipped out.
Then the seals behind the mickey mouse ears, ie, cam gear backing plates... and a distributor shaft seal.
Spring lined double lip seal, also a fine large O-ring that fits inside the housing... mine were all carbonized and have to be chipped out.
Then the seals behind the mickey mouse ears, ie, cam gear backing plates... and a distributor shaft seal.
#5
Burning Brakes
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I recently did the seals on my 83. Four seals each side plus the distributor shaft seal. Twenty or thirty bucks from Roger. There are a bunch of small WYAIT jobs here in addition to the usual pump, belt, rollers and tensioner. If your oil seals are leaking or still original, consider replacing the four oil pump seals and the main crank seal. Also replace the oil return line gasket, the dipstick o-ring, and tighten the oil filler bolts. Inspect your front engine harness, oil level sender, and oil pressure sender. Oh, and closely inspect the cam and oil pump gears for any wear through the anodizing and for cracks. I’d also recommend you get new bolts and washers for the cam gears to prevent cracks in the future. Make sure the washers go the right way round. Be sure to follow ALL specified torque settings. Finally, I’d also replace the original cork gaskets at the cover plates at the rear of the heads with silicone gaskets available from Roger. He will guide you through all the above. Here are some pictures and a brief writeup: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post15663639
Last edited by rjtw; 07-13-2019 at 02:44 PM.
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Millemor11 (08-26-2019)
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#8
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To do the cam nose seals you are a half dozen bolts away from the seals behind the cam covers, as at that point you have the cam gears off and the covers exposed. And will already have the distributor removed to do the drivers side.
On the other hand, I respect a 928 owner who has the mental where-with-all to defend against scope creep. This group needs a course in that. Definitely the minority here.
On the other hand, I respect a 928 owner who has the mental where-with-all to defend against scope creep. This group needs a course in that. Definitely the minority here.
#10
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You may actually have to have those covers off anyway it's been so long ago I've forgotten. The little fat seals behind there are the source for oil that drips onto the alternator.
#11
Nordschleife Master
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Unless you think you are going to do the cam seals with the plates in place.
Which isn't a real good idea.
Once you get far enough in to do the seals, the cam fronts are 3 bolts each. It's a LOT easier to pull them off & do the seals on the bench.
#13
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can you post pictures or the procedure you follow for this job?
#14
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Yes, but how to get the cam bearing plates off? Have 3 bolts out, front seal out, key out, wiring detached, no sign of movement at all. Tried light tapping, no movement. Whats the trick please?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k