Any Tips For Removing the head on a 4.5
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Any Tips For Removing the head on a 4.5
Hi Good People,
I have the engine out of the 79 and have started stripping it. I cannot for the life of me get the head to separate from the block. There is a lot of corrosion around the inner studs. I have hit the ***** of a thing with a nylon mallet, used a block of wood to try and bash it free, to no avail. Even tried suspending the engine by the head while I thump it. Nope.....not moving.
I should point out.....original engine with 60,000 miles and never been opened. One belt job in forty years. Been siting in a garage since 1988 I think.
Cheers
Scott
I have the engine out of the 79 and have started stripping it. I cannot for the life of me get the head to separate from the block. There is a lot of corrosion around the inner studs. I have hit the ***** of a thing with a nylon mallet, used a block of wood to try and bash it free, to no avail. Even tried suspending the engine by the head while I thump it. Nope.....not moving.
I should point out.....original engine with 60,000 miles and never been opened. One belt job in forty years. Been siting in a garage since 1988 I think.
Cheers
Scott
#2
Racer
Scott
From your description Sounds like you still have the studs in. if so then you'll need to extract them first as bimetallic (steel/aluminium) corrosion has probably welded parts together.
Sam
From your description Sounds like you still have the studs in. if so then you'll need to extract them first as bimetallic (steel/aluminium) corrosion has probably welded parts together.
Sam
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
^ One head came off ok. I'll post pics of the head gasket....or should I say lack of head gasket. I've tried putting two nuts on the studs and locking them up but the studs won't budge. My next step will be trying to drive a wedge between the head and the block.
#4
Racer
Careful when you do that the aluminium is rather soft. I went through this about a year ago so I feel for you. the studs were originally installed by the factory with a strong thread locking compound so were a complete pain to remove. Took a long time using heat on the head around the studs and a reverse chuck extractor like this one attached to an impact driver.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Hub-...frcectupt=true
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Hub-...frcectupt=true
#5
Rennlist Member
I had this problem on an Alfa 1600 once - gaskets with glue on them. Carbs mounted on rubber so you couldnt use them for grips. Eventually freed it by filling to the gasket level with hottest possible water, redo after cooling..
I wouldnt doing any wedging in there. Try rocking via the exhaust manifold, and maybe one or two of the inlet legs?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
I wouldnt doing any wedging in there. Try rocking via the exhaust manifold, and maybe one or two of the inlet legs?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k