Steve Cattaneo

If there is no or low engine vacuum at the modulator the transmission will shift hard. Check for vacuum first at the modulator with a gauge 17 to21 IN/ HG, if none or low check the feed line. If the vacuum is good then check the vacuum modulator cap it is part of the vacuum system. If it’s missing or cracked (it likes to crack) you will have hard shifts, erratic shifts. MB part #1262770081.

I do not recommend lowering the transmission working pressure with out verifying it with a pressure gauge.

Nicole

With the three 928s I have owned so far, I found that shocks start to really deteriorate around 60k miles, and seem to lose most of their function by 70k.

My car had been lowered as well, and handled horribly. In bumpy turns it was hard to predict what it was going to do, and I bottomed out a lot. New shocks did not help very much.

Then I took the car to DEVEK for a ride height adjustment and alignment. It was like driving a different car afterwards. The ride is more Mercedes-like now, and the handling is as precise as you would expect it from a Porsche.

Looking back, I would probably have shock replacement and ride height adjustment done at the same time - an alignment is necessary in both cases anyway, and they are not cheap...

It seems that taking advantage of the 928s ride height adjustability brings more disadvantages than anything else. It's probably OK to go 1/2 inch lower, maybe a hair more. But going low-low is a recipe for deasaster. Even though it does really look good...

FeedNfrenZ

Thanks, Nicole. I just wish I knew if the front end being low was done on purpose or if it is because of a problem.......... guess if it was a problem both sides wouldn't be the same hieght. One spring would sag more than the other?
I saw your post on the steering rack............ I'll probably be looking at that. New rack/pump.................. unless I can figure out a cheeper way?

ViribusUnits

Maybe check to make sure the Ps is full, not leaking, and has a good belt first, before anything else.

Then get an alignment job done. There is part of the adjustment called caster angle. It's basicly how likely the frount wheels are to act like a shoping cart wheel and point which ever diriction the car is already moveing. Cross caster causes a pull, caster just causes the car to want to go straight all the time. Makes the steering rack work harder, and causes the car to feel realy unnimble. Could be a by product of that lowering...

Finaly, then new rack and pump. Maybe go rebuilt, but you won't have a core, so...

Here is a web site that does a good job explaing it. I know it's for RC cars, but the principle is the same.

http://www.rctek.com/handling/caster_angle_basics.html

and

http://www.rctek.com/handling/caster..._advanced.html