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View Poll Results: For only a head gasket replacement only on a 16v and no other service work, would you
Pull the motor
70.00%
Leave the motor installed & pull just the heads
30.00%
Voters: 40. You may not vote on this poll

Blown/Damaged Head Gasket?

 
Old 03-21-2019, 05:10 PM
  #61  
Kevin in Atlanta
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Originally Posted by karl ruiter View Post
Mark the position of the hood hinges with a sharpee. If you have fender service guards this would be a good time to use them as it is easy to bump the hood against a fender as you are lifting it, if you are doing it by your self.
I unbolt hood hinges and all.
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Old 03-21-2019, 05:59 PM
  #62  
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Thanks guys. Keep the tips coming.

My car has the Z06 6-speed if that effects any of this, like the bell housing suggestion.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:32 PM
  #63  
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What spec (size, length, thread pitch, and grade) mounting bolts will I need to put the engine on a Sunex 8300 engine stand once I've pulled it?
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:47 PM
  #64  
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Umm disconnect the bell housing from the engine, remove the rear trans mounts to cross member
and slide it back an inch or so,
Put a small block of wood under the TT at the small chassis cross memeber the TT will rest on it.
Then pull the engine up about 4 inches then slide it forward while lifting.
The bell housing will hit the chassis if its not removed from the engine .
NOTE if you have a clutch then also remove the clutch
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:10 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
Umm disconnect the bell housing from the engine, remove the rear trans mounts to cross member
and slide it back an inch or so,
Put a small block of wood under the TT at the small chassis cross memeber the TT will rest on it.
Then pull the engine up about 4 inches then slide it forward while lifting.
The bell housing will hit the chassis if its not removed from the engine .
NOTE if you have a clutch then also remove the clutch
Sure, you can do it this way.

But we've removed/installed many engines bellhousing on, and it's far easier working on and setting up the clutch, and unistalling/installing the clutch-fork with the engine out.

The tricky part is removing/installing the torque tube bolts, but even that is easy enough, just need to be patient.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:15 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by SwayBar View Post
Sure, you can do it this way.

But we've removed/installed many engines bellhousing on, and it's far easier working on and setting up the clutch, and uninstalling/installing the clutch-fork with the engine out.

The tricky part is removing/installing the torque tube bolts, but even that is easy enough, just need to be patient.
Are there threads you can refer me to here with pictures? Just curious.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:53 AM
  #67  
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I don't know if there are any threads on it.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:02 AM
  #68  
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And along those lines, there is no need to drop the exhaust system. Simply zip-tie it in-place, and only remove the 'collector' bolts.

Engine will come right out with exhaust in place, and one less thing to hook-up afterwards.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:04 AM
  #69  
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I've always found it easier to do it like Stan does. Unbolt the housing from the engine and leave it connected to the torque tube.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:25 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by SeanR View Post
I've always found it easier to do it like Stan does. Unbolt the housing from the engine and leave it connected to the torque tube.
That is only way I've done.
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:10 PM
  #71  
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OK, I'll do it that way and leave the bell-housing on the torque tube.

I'll be pulling the clutch pack anyway as I'm going to replace my spec friction discs with OEM ones to finally eliminate the grabbiness of the engagement that has bothered me since the beginning. My car does have the upgraded 80-83 dual disc clutch with intermediate plate and all that was new during the build, so just doing the friction discs which I already have on-hand.

Thanks.
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:25 PM
  #72  
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By all means do what you think is best.

My comments are for 5-speeds only. I got sick and tired with wrestling with the clutch-fork and ball-cup bushing after dropping the engine back in. I had to use a crow-bar and large screwdriver to get the fork over the bushing.

Perhaps autos are easier.
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:38 PM
  #73  
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Mine's not an auto or a 5-speed (6-speed) so guess I'll pull the clutch pack and then see what looks easier. My plan is to get a Cherry picker with a balancer assembly so I can angle the motor as needed coming out, then level it off. I still need to search for the engine hoist attachment points to see how all of that is done once I get everything off and disconnected.

I sure am going to learn a lot about my 928 if nothing else - maybe even enough to get my son one when he's old enough, because after this whole process, I might have a spare motor if my current one is OK.
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Old 03-22-2019, 01:17 PM
  #74  
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Hi Pete,
There are a couple of things to do while the engine is out, that are difficult otherwise. One is the A/C line along the right fender. I'm sure there are others, and you should look around for them to save yourself grief.
Good luck,
Dave
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Old 03-22-2019, 02:54 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hi Pete,
There are a couple of things to do while the engine is out, that are difficult otherwise. .... I'm sure there are others, and you should look around for them to save yourself grief.
Good luck,
Dave
the infamous blue hose from the brake booster.
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