Possible Engine Failure ---- UPDATE
#16
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Swamp Lands of Louisiana, The Deep Dirty South 2 Miles From Pimp City
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Big dave I know of a new supercharger motor ready to drop in, it was built with a new block. I think it can be bought for a great price.
George
George
#17
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info George. It's reasonable to assume that Rob doesn't want to supercharge. He's using a mechanic because they're giving him a 2 year warranty when the work is done. I doubt anyone would offer that if there's a supercharger involved.
#18
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by George 911-V8
Big dave I know of a new supercharger motor ready to drop in, it was built with a new block. I think it can be bought for a great price.
George
Big dave I know of a new supercharger motor ready to drop in, it was built with a new block. I think it can be bought for a great price.
George
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Who built it ? where did they find a new block ? what pistons ? what compression ratio ? which camshafts ? any crank modifications ? Why is it being offered for sale "at a great price" ; has it been started and tested ?
#21
Pro
Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Swamp Lands of Louisiana, The Deep Dirty South 2 Miles From Pimp City
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The reason he wants to sell, I think he wants to make the car a drag race application. He spent big coin on this motor and he never fired it off yet, its sitting on a stand ready to drop in. I know the block is brand new not used and the supercharger is polished. The complete set up looks great. I will put him in touch with anyone thats intrested. No its not a chevy
George
George
#22
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Denmark
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
................(unlike the Mercedes where the converter is attach to the engine ) the 928 transaxle has the converter inside a reasonably heavy cast aluminium housing and two bearings and a snap ring in a groove which would resist any movement / force on the drive shaft .
................(unlike the Mercedes where the converter is attach to the engine ) the 928 transaxle has the converter inside a reasonably heavy cast aluminium housing and two bearings and a snap ring in a groove which would resist any movement / force on the drive shaft .
Exactly, that's also my point
The 'twisting' theory also confirm the 'Loctite-Fix' theory (Even I do not want to use the Loctite if I can avoid it)
Then 2 comments:
1. I do not understand that it should be so difficult to repair the block after trust bearing damage - I mean if a professional block renovating shop (or a good machinery shop) get the block, that it must be possible to machine the damaged area and install a distance ring to the original measure
2. It is not 100% correct that the Trans shaft cannot move in the rear spline connection due the slot for the bolt - I have seen mine was moved 2-3 mm forwards, and I pushed it back – BTDT
Regards from Erik in Denmark
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm convinced that the "Jim Bailey" theory is the correct one.
I saw the TT front clamp being undone on a friends car that had TBF - the clamp moved aft by about 7mm (1/4")
His block was repaired by welding new metal onto the aft face of the centre main bearing journal and then grinding it back to the correct size - remember that the block/crank ladder only holds the centre main/thrust bearing in position it is not the bearing itself.
I also have seen a different repair where the block/ladder face that gets worn away when the bearing shell spins is machined flat and then the thickness is made up with 2 semicircular shims fixed to the block with countresunk bolts.
Sitting in my garden is the block of a TBF engine - the only damage to the block that needs to be repaired is the aft face of the centre main/thrust bearing. It seems that there is sufficient tolerance in the piston pins to allow the rods to move forwards without loading the pistons. Crank needs a regrind though!
Cheers
Jon
Black SE
now with slipping clutch.
I saw the TT front clamp being undone on a friends car that had TBF - the clamp moved aft by about 7mm (1/4")
His block was repaired by welding new metal onto the aft face of the centre main bearing journal and then grinding it back to the correct size - remember that the block/crank ladder only holds the centre main/thrust bearing in position it is not the bearing itself.
I also have seen a different repair where the block/ladder face that gets worn away when the bearing shell spins is machined flat and then the thickness is made up with 2 semicircular shims fixed to the block with countresunk bolts.
Sitting in my garden is the block of a TBF engine - the only damage to the block that needs to be repaired is the aft face of the centre main/thrust bearing. It seems that there is sufficient tolerance in the piston pins to allow the rods to move forwards without loading the pistons. Crank needs a regrind though!
Cheers
Jon
Black SE
now with slipping clutch.
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sorry to hear the news on the TBF. I went through the same problem a year and a half ago. Have him make sure the mechanic doing the install knows what he's doing. The cheapest mechanic ain't always the best deal. I have personal experience to back that up...
#26
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Earl
For definite two of the three TBF's that I "know of " were a result of the front clamp having never been released, which would have allowed the front clamp to slide back to it's "at rest" position. As I said earlier I am convinced that is purely caused by the shaft shortening under load, which results in the end of the shaft being pulled out of the clamp. When the load is released (foot of gas pedal !) the shaft returns to its normal untwisted state and length but the clamp is now slightly further forwards on the shaft - hence the overall length of shaft and clamp is longer thus putting a permanent load on the crank and thrust bearing.
This ratcheting kind of action is quite a common cause of failure in cyclical load situations, but it tends to occur more in buildings than it does in mechanical engineering scenarios.
I believe that Porsche kind of acknowledged this problem and released a service bulletin advising that the clamp bolts be tightened 10% tighter than the original spec. Or am I dreaming and it is the condensed advice of the experienced hands of the various 928 boards around the world ?
Cheers
Jon
Black SE
For definite two of the three TBF's that I "know of " were a result of the front clamp having never been released, which would have allowed the front clamp to slide back to it's "at rest" position. As I said earlier I am convinced that is purely caused by the shaft shortening under load, which results in the end of the shaft being pulled out of the clamp. When the load is released (foot of gas pedal !) the shaft returns to its normal untwisted state and length but the clamp is now slightly further forwards on the shaft - hence the overall length of shaft and clamp is longer thus putting a permanent load on the crank and thrust bearing.
This ratcheting kind of action is quite a common cause of failure in cyclical load situations, but it tends to occur more in buildings than it does in mechanical engineering scenarios.
I believe that Porsche kind of acknowledged this problem and released a service bulletin advising that the clamp bolts be tightened 10% tighter than the original spec. Or am I dreaming and it is the condensed advice of the experienced hands of the various 928 boards around the world ?
Cheers
Jon
Black SE
#27
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Jon,
Your theory of the shaft shortning under load makes the most sense. The "Loctite Fix" that I developed seems to solve the problem of the migrating hub. It has been used for over 4 years and I have not heard of a TBF on any car that it was done on. The only problem that I have heard of is that it works too good. It is almost impossible to disassemble if necessary.
One thing that bothers me is, I have seen many high mileage cars ( before Loctite) with the hub jammed against the flywheel, yet normal crankshaft end play. Why do only some cars have TBF?
Your theory of the shaft shortning under load makes the most sense. The "Loctite Fix" that I developed seems to solve the problem of the migrating hub. It has been used for over 4 years and I have not heard of a TBF on any car that it was done on. The only problem that I have heard of is that it works too good. It is almost impossible to disassemble if necessary.
One thing that bothers me is, I have seen many high mileage cars ( before Loctite) with the hub jammed against the flywheel, yet normal crankshaft end play. Why do only some cars have TBF?
#28
Rennlist Member
Earl,
Not sure if this helps any, since I'm unfamiliar with the nether regions of my 928(so far)... But Loctite Red & Blue turn to powder at about 400ºF and let go. I've used loctite red to hold a pillow block bearing inner race on a shaft, then when the bearing needed to be replaced I just heated it up and then removed the bearing as usual. I doubt there is enough room down there to apply that kind of heat without damaging something. But for small assemblies you can throw in a 400º oven, it's the "hot" tip...
S
Not sure if this helps any, since I'm unfamiliar with the nether regions of my 928(so far)... But Loctite Red & Blue turn to powder at about 400ºF and let go. I've used loctite red to hold a pillow block bearing inner race on a shaft, then when the bearing needed to be replaced I just heated it up and then removed the bearing as usual. I doubt there is enough room down there to apply that kind of heat without damaging something. But for small assemblies you can throw in a 400º oven, it's the "hot" tip...
S
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dave A,
I have been told that it takes a lot of torch heat to loosen the Loctite on the shaft, and then a lot of prying and beating. luckily we both have 5 speeds.
I have been told that it takes a lot of torch heat to loosen the Loctite on the shaft, and then a lot of prying and beating. luckily we both have 5 speeds.
#30
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Another update:
The mechanic is saying it looks like the block will need to be replace (no surprise there). Unfortunately, it looks to me that this saga is not going to end up well. Rob told me that the mechanic doesn't even have the 928 workshop manuals. He doesn't even have access to the engine specs to see what the recommended torque settings are.
I don't like the direction this is going for Rob at all.
The mechanic is saying it looks like the block will need to be replace (no surprise there). Unfortunately, it looks to me that this saga is not going to end up well. Rob told me that the mechanic doesn't even have the 928 workshop manuals. He doesn't even have access to the engine specs to see what the recommended torque settings are.
I don't like the direction this is going for Rob at all.