SeanR

Well sure, if you are full throttle and the car doesn't actually know it's at full throttle for mapping. Anything is possible. Until you get an ST on there, you are really just guessing and wasting your time with this. I get knocks when I tip the throttle in hard, almost every time I do it, on almost every car I do it on. 18 knocks, not knowing anything but what the Hammer is telling you, is nothing and it just seems like you are standing in front of a fan taking a leak at this point. I'm simply amazed you didn't change the TPS when you did an intake refresh........

merchauser

maybe I wet myself and got confused.

is that a texas saying??? lol

is it possible for a TPS to test fine in a static setting, but in a dynamic setting constantly fail? would heat and/or vibration not allow it
to work while driving? any other reason for testing fine but failing in real world conditions? oil inside? those zero knock runs might have been
the only time WOTS was working?

Mrmerlin

one test for a used TPS is to remove it from the intake and set the opening down on a flat surface in the sun,
let is sit there for a few hours,
if oil streams out then the TPS is done.

You should have replaced the throttle shaft and flappy shaft bearings with the new version double sided O rings bearings

merchauser

yup...agreed. it is on my new list.

stan, got any idea what would make the TPS test ok at rest, but continually fail under load?

Mrmerlin

usually filled with oil
This then damages the contacts inside the part

merchauser

UPDATE: I am able to create low knock recordings as well as higher knock recordings! now I need community help to figure out what the heck is going on?

some facts (like science) and beliefs (like santa). here are the facts:
-as recommended, I removed intake (again) and replaced ISV, TPS, throttle shaft and flappy bearings. very happy with results
-replaced knock sensors twice, thinking my first set might have been faulty; no difference
-my chips are original and have not been replaced
-installed clear hoses at all 4 engine breather ports, cam covers and oil filler; with greg brown baffle, absolutely no oil in hoses. great product!
-I do not have any oil ingestion thru the intake/breathers, so no oil diluting octane
-most of the time my cars runs "good" but there are times when my car feels unbelievable and more powerful
-when knocks are recorded, ECUs pull back timing and car is less powerful
-using hammer, nearly all of the time I record knocks between 20 and 35 with aggressive runs, pedal to the floor and shifts just under 6k
-there have been times (few) when, I record near zero knocks under same style of driving. those times car is more powerful
-I have fueled up with 100 octane fuel and recorded the exact results; no lower knocks

-my original post (6 months ago) was about believing a change in gas station resulted in better fuel and lower knocks; that lasted exactly one day! yesterday, I filled up at my usual station and with aggressive driving, recorded 0,1, or 2 knocks max. stopped for an hour, back in car, and higher knocks were back? those 2 events had something in common:

-yesterday morning, I booted the hammer, started the car, and drove off. when I stopped for gas, I did not want to go thru the hammer boot process again, so I shut the engine off quickly, and left the key in the on position. the hammer never shut down. that was exactly what I did those 6 months ago.

-today, I replicated the results over and over again. boot hammer, start car, drive and record high knocks. pull over, turn engine off, but keep key on, with hammer continuously energized, start car, drive like a banshee, and record 0, 1, or 2 knocks? I never saw more than 2 knocks while having a ball thrashing this beast. and the car felt like it should. (lots of fun)

here are my beliefs:
-the ECUs are seeing knocks and pulling back timing, but the knocks are phantom or false
-my engine is not experiencing true knock events, and I don't have detonation
-since the hammer is not being rebooted, I don't think the hammer is the problem


something is happening when the ignition quickly goes from off to on?? ground issue? LH or EZK at fault? ground? diagnostic port?

merchauser

wiring diagram shows that knock sensors report directly to EZK could there be an issue there? or with ground MP lX