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Off topic I suppose, but knowing now the A/C is designed into the fuel cooling system the way it is, it seems that an A/C delete on this car would probably reduce performance by raising the fuel temperature going to the injectors, and so vaporizing the fuel at a lower temperature (making the mixture less dense)? I assume that would decrease power? What does the ECU do in that situation? is there a fuel temp. sensor in there somewhere? A control from the ECU that engages the A/C compressor when fuel temp. gets too high?
Nothing to do with getting the nut loose, but I'm still curious.
Off topic I suppose, but knowing now the A/C is designed into the fuel cooling system the way it is, it seems that an A/C delete on this car would probably reduce performance by raising the fuel temperature going to the injectors, and so vaporizing the fuel at a lower temperature (making the mixture less dense)? I assume that would decrease power? What does the ECU do in that situation? is there a fuel temp. sensor in there somewhere? A control from the ECU that engages the A/C compressor when fuel temp. gets too high?
Nothing to do with getting the nut loose, but I'm still curious.
You would not be able to tell a difference in power output at all.
Received the replacement 17mm crow's foot and freezing stuff today, discovered location of original crow's foot; my wife had borrowed it to tighten a loose exhaust manifold bolt on her turbocharger ('98 Audi S4) and forgot to put it back. The odd thing was I told her it was missing and she even offered to try getting a new one from O'Reilly's in San Jose yesterday. I told her I needed a 17mm crow's foot and that I'd already tried that store last Thursday and they didn't have one. When the replacement came in the mail she looked at it and silently went down to the other garage (the one with the daily drivers in it) and came back with the wrench along with my good universal. She said she'd bought the set it was from years ago and didn't know it was called a "crow's foot" so it was actually hers not mine anyway. I restrained myself...
The winning combination was to freeze the fitting a couple of times spraying it down with ATF+acetone between freezes, then attaching a long 3/8ths extension to a 3/8ths breaker as suggested, followed by having my wife lean over the fender with the wrench and "snap" the fitting loose as Sean suggested (no counterhold, not enough room for two of us in there) while I held the flashlight. Came right out.
She was gracious enough to thank me for loosening it for her...
You had to click on "fuel/ exhaust" at the top of the link page, then follow the post. Sorry...
No problem, I should have caught it since I knew where that drawing was, I just wasn't looking at it right. It honestly never occurred to me the A/C refrigerant was used to cool the fuel. German engineering, what can I say?
So now I have the troublesome galled fuel line free and all I have left to disassemble is the strangely routed original line that Greg's improved design corrects, it almost seems worth leaving the old hard line in since it seems to support an electrical connector and harness of some sort? While working on that, I've discovered coolant puddled in the "valley" of my engine, which was sparkling clean after the intake refresh I did 4 years ago. I have no idea where that coolant is coming from and I'll be laying awake nights for awhile until I figure it out. I also, of course, discovered evidence of mouse activity as shown by acorns floating in the coolant... Sigh. It was so clean! Now I need to figure out how to get it out without destroying the shop vac or poisoning my dogs.
On the upside, my wife now has her very own complete set of metric crow's foot wrenches and she appears delighted. I won't need to worry about a Christmas gift this year.
Congrats on removing the line As for sucking out the coolant in the valley, I've used a turkey baster. For the really hard to reach areas you can put a hose on the end of the baster. I would look at the heater control valve or the block-off plate on the head for possible leaks.
When you put Greg's new fuel line on, be thinking about the airbox that will eventually go on top. I didn't and discovered a couple years later I had squished the return line. Mea culpa - I should have thought that through...
Congrats on removing the line As for sucking out the coolant in the valley, I've used a turkey baster. For the really hard to reach areas you can put a hose on the end of the baster. I would look at the heater control valve or the block-off plate on the head for possible leaks.
When you put Greg's new fuel line on, be thinking about the airbox that will eventually go on top. I didn't and discovered a couple years later I had squished the return line. Mea culpa - I should have thought that through...
Good advice on all counts, thanks. That crushed fuel line looks like a disaster that was waiting to happen, dodged a bullet I'd say
Tomorrow I wrap disassembly and I hope it's downhill from there. Next up; new boots on the steering rack and new high pressure lines on the PS pump.
... discovered location of original crow's foot; my wife had borrowed it to tighten a loose exhaust manifold bolt on her turbocharger ('98 Audi S4) and forgot to put it back.
Damn. And I thought I had a keeper of a wife. It's kinda hard to get mad at a wife for 'steeling' tools to work on her own car(s).
Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic... discovered location of original crow's foot; my wife had borrowed it to tighten a loose exhaust manifold bolt on her turbocharger ('98 Audi S4) and forgot to put it back.
Yes thats was really an odd thing to be saying about ones wife.
But hey its all good,
does she have a sister thats single??
Glad you got the B nut off.
NoVector
That Greg Brown fuel line might have to be replaced,
I would send Greg a picture of that line and ask him.
Thats not a normal operating condition for the teflon hose.
Yes thats was really an odd thing to be saying about ones wife.
But hey its all good, does she have a sister thats single??
One left out of the four of them (counting my wife), but she's bespoke and living with her significant other in Florida, happy as a clam I'm afraid. Of the four, my wife's the only engineer though. She may be accepting trade-in offers, I could always ask?
You would not be able to tell a difference in power output at all.
Well, on the upside, Jim's pointer caused me to start looking for (and eventually finding) my EPA Section 609 MVAC certification in preparation for buying R-12 to re-charge the A/C, so at least that's taken care of...
Now I have all of the old lines out, I'm left with a single portion of the hard line that runs from the FPR to the cooler. I'm not sure what to do with it.
In the picture below you can see the portion of the line in question; it not only routes fuel, but it has an electrical harness support welded to it. If it's removed, the harness needs to be unplugged and left flopping around in the engine bay without support:
I'm inclined to leave this line in. Anyone else done this job using the GB upgrade? Advice one way or the other? I hate to leave parts in that might interfere with the installation of the new lines.
Thanks,
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 11-07-2018 at 06:21 PM.
11-05-2018, 03:57 AM
As for sucking out the coolant in the valley, I've used a turkey baster. For the really hard to reach areas you can put a hose on the end of the baster. I would look at the heater control valve or the block-off plate on the head for possible leaks.
... discovered location of original crow's foot; my wife had borrowed it to tighten a loose exhaust manifold bolt on her turbocharger ('98 Audi S4) and forgot to put it back.
