Trouble w/galled fuel line
#1
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Trouble w/galled fuel line
Trying to remove a frozen fuel line between the pressure regulator and cooler, but the fitting is badly galled. I'm using a 17mm flare wrench on the lower fitting and counter-holding with a 19mm open end wrench on the cooler side, but the 17mm flare is starting to round off the nut. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster last night, let it sit overnight and tried it again today with no real change. Sprayed it again just now and will wait awhile before trying it again.
Since it's a fuel line I cant really heat it up I don't think, though I do have a heat gun, it just doesn't seem like a very good idea. Any other suggestions?
PS: I suppose, since I'm replacing the fuel line anyway, I could try using vice grips on the 17mm fitting instead of the flare. I hate destroying that hard line since I suppose it could be re-built someday, but if that's the only way to break it loose I may have no choice.
Thanks,
Since it's a fuel line I cant really heat it up I don't think, though I do have a heat gun, it just doesn't seem like a very good idea. Any other suggestions?
PS: I suppose, since I'm replacing the fuel line anyway, I could try using vice grips on the 17mm fitting instead of the flare. I hate destroying that hard line since I suppose it could be re-built someday, but if that's the only way to break it loose I may have no choice.
Thanks,
#2
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Scott, Try an Ice cube on the male side, it may shrink the inner fitting enough to help.
#3
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Acetone and ATF mixed 50/50 is my goto loosener.
#4
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Grab a few cans of computer duster air. Turn it upside down so it sprays liquid, and freeze the ball. Get the liquid out of the line and cooler first if you can. There are other "specialized" freeze sprays, while the relatively cheap and available canned air has a liquid propellant underneath that freezes stuff nicely as it evaporates from your part.
#5
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#6
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#7
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Grab a few cans of computer duster air. Turn it upside down so it sprays liquid, and freeze the ball. Get the liquid out of the line and cooler first if you can. There are other "specialized" freeze sprays, while the relatively cheap and available canned air has a liquid propellant underneath that freezes stuff nicely as it evaporates from your part.
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#8
This is how you do those. Quick snap and done.
#9
Drifting
Use 'dry-ice' to shrink down the male end, and it will come apart, Instead of heat expanding the 'female' end, cold shrinks the 'male' part... Just don't work on it till it comes back to 'room temp' Metal at -80* F will break like glass.
#10
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#12
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When I lived in Wyoming, everyone had dry ice this time of year, we used it to pack elk carcasses for transport. I miss those days.
PS: Good point about shattering the metal, I'd have forgotten that.
#13
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I call that the "fear of God" method. Mostly used around electronic equipment by technicians, it's the reason you can take your computer into a shop and have it work flawlessly in the presence of a repair tech, then stop working again as soon as you walk out the door...
#14
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Red Locktite?
Well, so far each method (freezing, use of 50/50 ATF+acetone, the crow's foot) have all failed to break this thing loose. On closer examination I found what looks like red locktite on the joint between the hard line (looks like aluminum but could be steel) and the fitting on the fuel cooler, which seems to be brass.
If I remember right, red locktite needs to be heated to 450F before it will release? If so, it seems I need to remove the fuel cooler with the lines attached, dry it out completely (no fuel left in it), then use a torch to heat up the joint. Can anyone confirm this is the necessary procedure when replacing this line?
Greg's new improved fuel line has an adapter on it that looks like it replaces the entire assemble leading from the fuel cooler to the FPR? It doesn't really say in the instructions, only that the adapter isn't tight and needs to be installed before the line is attached, making me think the cooler needs to come out. See attached photo for clarity:
The red locktite is on both fittings but only shows up on one in the photo and naturally its not the one I'm trying to get off.
Can anyone confirm the whole fuel cooler assembly needs to be removed to replace this line?
Thanks,
If I remember right, red locktite needs to be heated to 450F before it will release? If so, it seems I need to remove the fuel cooler with the lines attached, dry it out completely (no fuel left in it), then use a torch to heat up the joint. Can anyone confirm this is the necessary procedure when replacing this line?
Greg's new improved fuel line has an adapter on it that looks like it replaces the entire assemble leading from the fuel cooler to the FPR? It doesn't really say in the instructions, only that the adapter isn't tight and needs to be installed before the line is attached, making me think the cooler needs to come out. See attached photo for clarity:
The red locktite is on both fittings but only shows up on one in the photo and naturally its not the one I'm trying to get off.
Can anyone confirm the whole fuel cooler assembly needs to be removed to replace this line?
Thanks,
#15
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Fuel Cooler from PET
For reference, here's the fuel cooler assembly from the 83-86 PET. The cooler is part 57:
It looks (from the PET) like the two brass fittings on the cooler shown in the photo above are part of the cooler and can't be removed? If so, I don't think all of the adapter included with GB's hose needs to be used; the brass fitting on the cooler remains and is re-used?
Again, confirmation would be appreciated.
Thanks,
It looks (from the PET) like the two brass fittings on the cooler shown in the photo above are part of the cooler and can't be removed? If so, I don't think all of the adapter included with GB's hose needs to be used; the brass fitting on the cooler remains and is re-used?
Again, confirmation would be appreciated.
Thanks,