New 93 GTS Owner
#16
- Clearly, new to GTS digital display -- it wasn't saying to call police. Display is pixelated and I deciphered word in right window to be RANGE. Duh!!
- Battery accepted complete recharge
- Left display fine...middle and right display pixelated...suggestions?
- Ran car for an hour (no plates yet) and 80F outdoor temp. After warmed up, varied rpm's. Everything appeared fine. Fan was kicking on and off near ~190F mark. However, after an hour of this, the digital display indicate "oil pressure insufficient" at idle rpm and high temp. As soon as I applied throttle and got some RPM on car, no problem...thoughts?
- Battery accepted complete recharge
- Left display fine...middle and right display pixelated...suggestions?
- Ran car for an hour (no plates yet) and 80F outdoor temp. After warmed up, varied rpm's. Everything appeared fine. Fan was kicking on and off near ~190F mark. However, after an hour of this, the digital display indicate "oil pressure insufficient" at idle rpm and high temp. As soon as I applied throttle and got some RPM on car, no problem...thoughts?
#17
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
GTSs have an oil cooler under the radiator, not in the radiator, so there's essentially no heat exchange between coolant and oil. So idling in the driveway for an hour = no airflow = super hot oil, dropping your oil pressure. In other words, don't do that.
RE: the digidash, got a picture of what it looks like? The possibilities vary from a chooched PCB to blown illumination bulbs, would be helpful to see what you're seeing.
RE: the digidash, got a picture of what it looks like? The possibilities vary from a chooched PCB to blown illumination bulbs, would be helpful to see what you're seeing.
#18
Drifting
In the big picture ( I have a gts) the gts is known to have alot of pinging and oil in the intake issues that have been solved by Greg Brown , a couple of vendors now supply fixes for the oil ingesiton issues so this is what I would focus on after check ing all the usual stuff everyone has spoke about....contact Roger at 928rus he sells a system and has good success....!!!
#19
Rennlist Member
As for the low oil pressure, when you change your oil make sure you use 20w/50. Who knows what's in there now.
In case you don't have the owner's manual, here you go: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzC...zE1/view?hl=en
In case you don't have the owner's manual, here you go: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzC...zE1/view?hl=en
#20
Team Owner
Congrats on the new machine,
based on your info it would be good to determine if you need Motor Mounts and an oil pan gasket,
if not,
then change the oil and filter to Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil,
find it at the local FLAPS.
Dont run the engine for extended periods IE more than 15 mins without driving the car.
NOTE if you used a trickle charger to charge the battery this is not good for your battery, all this trickle does is maintain the charge.
NOTE you need a dedicated battery charger with an output of atleast 6 amps.
NOTE if you ran the engine at idle in an attempt to recharge the battery,
this is not good for the battery or the alternator or the engine oiling system or the area above where the cats are.
Disconnect the battery and recharge it for 4 hours at 6 amps and this should restore the battery to solid charged point, this will also increase the battery life and relay life.
As suggested get the crank end play checked first , and make sure the front and rear driveshaft pinch bolts are tightend to 66 ft/lbs.
Most rear pinch bolts are loose.
A Post Purchase Inspection done by a 928 mechanic should be your first priority.
Then coming up with a game plan of necessary maintenance should be made.
to include inspection of the belt run and if its in good condition then leave it alone and drive the car.
NOTE posting pictures of the engine bay will give us a better understanding of the engine condition and its future needs.
Most S4 and later cars get sold because they need an intake refresh your car may need this.
NOTE you need to be a member to post pictures, $18.00 a year makes that happen.
you can also add your location to your signature,
If your near Dallas Texas look for SeanR on here for a PPI.
He is well versed in the 928 and your money will be well spent by having a 928 mechanic look things over.
Roger Tyson at 928sRus.com is also in Texas so you have one of the best parts resources with fast shipping.
based on your info it would be good to determine if you need Motor Mounts and an oil pan gasket,
if not,
then change the oil and filter to Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil,
find it at the local FLAPS.
Dont run the engine for extended periods IE more than 15 mins without driving the car.
NOTE if you used a trickle charger to charge the battery this is not good for your battery, all this trickle does is maintain the charge.
NOTE you need a dedicated battery charger with an output of atleast 6 amps.
NOTE if you ran the engine at idle in an attempt to recharge the battery,
this is not good for the battery or the alternator or the engine oiling system or the area above where the cats are.
Disconnect the battery and recharge it for 4 hours at 6 amps and this should restore the battery to solid charged point, this will also increase the battery life and relay life.
As suggested get the crank end play checked first , and make sure the front and rear driveshaft pinch bolts are tightend to 66 ft/lbs.
Most rear pinch bolts are loose.
A Post Purchase Inspection done by a 928 mechanic should be your first priority.
Then coming up with a game plan of necessary maintenance should be made.
to include inspection of the belt run and if its in good condition then leave it alone and drive the car.
NOTE posting pictures of the engine bay will give us a better understanding of the engine condition and its future needs.
Most S4 and later cars get sold because they need an intake refresh your car may need this.
NOTE you need to be a member to post pictures, $18.00 a year makes that happen.
you can also add your location to your signature,
If your near Dallas Texas look for SeanR on here for a PPI.
He is well versed in the 928 and your money will be well spent by having a 928 mechanic look things over.
Roger Tyson at 928sRus.com is also in Texas so you have one of the best parts resources with fast shipping.
#22
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Attached is pic of digital dash.
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Webshop...&product_id=60
You might also try putting the cluster into diagnostics mode, maybe doing so would 'clear' the display error (?- doubt it but little harm in trying) Here's a link to the workshop manual for the procedures.
https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/pu...%20Cluster.pdf
You'll need a jumper to bridge pins 5 and 13 of the diagnostic connector by the passenger seat:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...connector.html
#24
Burning Brakes
Beautiful car. Enjoy the ride. Welcome to the Shark Tank....
#25
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
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Most quality transmission fluids meet the old Dexron spec.
Usually states in the small print.
Usually states in the small print.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#26
Rennlist Member
Power steering takes ATF, not power steering fluid.
Don't do what I did, ...twice.
Don't do what I did, ...twice.
#28
New owner checking things out...
- power steering - right at lower dipstick mark - how many ounces to add to top off and get to full mark...doesn't look like much?
- transmission - didn't catch fast enough for 20 degree check, but hot check appeared ok (near min mark and increasing since the transmission was not completely hot)
- ride height - car looks great at current ride height however seems low for mechanical/non-scraping purposes - numbers tell the same story 133mm on both fronts and 140mm on both rears - forum spreadsheet says I need 7.5 turns on each front strut and 11 turns on each back strut to get to 170mm on fronts and 165mm on rears (tried moving rings with wheels on and they only budged a hair (even with breaker bar and kroil spray), and not enough room to fit in spring compressor behind wheel at least in front)...looks like taking wheels off at a min with possible strut compression to make changes to
- no engine pans
New 'Liftmates'...TTS came with chrome wheels so just left them on for driving around...have correct wheels elsewhere!
- power steering - right at lower dipstick mark - how many ounces to add to top off and get to full mark...doesn't look like much?
- transmission - didn't catch fast enough for 20 degree check, but hot check appeared ok (near min mark and increasing since the transmission was not completely hot)
- ride height - car looks great at current ride height however seems low for mechanical/non-scraping purposes - numbers tell the same story 133mm on both fronts and 140mm on both rears - forum spreadsheet says I need 7.5 turns on each front strut and 11 turns on each back strut to get to 170mm on fronts and 165mm on rears (tried moving rings with wheels on and they only budged a hair (even with breaker bar and kroil spray), and not enough room to fit in spring compressor behind wheel at least in front)...looks like taking wheels off at a min with possible strut compression to make changes to
- no engine pans
New 'Liftmates'...TTS came with chrome wheels so just left them on for driving around...have correct wheels elsewhere!