Hi guys,
This is a new problem. New mini starter 6 months ago which has been working fine. The car has been sitting quite a bit this Summer, and yesterday and today it required about 10 seconds of cranking before it started up. The starter is turning strongly. Once started in runs and drives perfectly. Battery is fully charged.
I was thinking check valve or old gas. Anything else come to mind? (84 US L-jet automatic)
Thanks,
Dave

 

pull the vacuum lines on the dampers and smell for fuel look for loose intake collars

 

Thanks, Stan. New damper and regulators .I will still check what you suggest.
Dave

 

check the temp2 sensors to make sure they are in the correct ohm range...

 

Fuel pump check valve, Thermotime switch, or cold start injector. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure bleeds down when the fuel pump is off?

Check FSM pages 24-17 and 24-18 for testing instructions of thermotime switch and injector.

 

Thanks, checkmate and moose. I will put those on my list.
Dave

 

Hi guys,
About three years ago, I had a no start. I don't remember how I got to the conclusion, but replaced the temp 2 sensor, and it started right up. Since I know that sensor is pretty new now, I disconnected and sprayed the connector with Deoxit. The car started right up. Maybe a weak connection caused the problem both times. I guess I will keep an eye on things, since it's working fine right now.
Thanks again,
Dave

 

Hi,
Please see the Low cost mini starter thread. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...starter-9.html
Dr. Bob explained:
"The original [starter] system dumped current to the ignition without all the voltage drop between the starter end of the battery terminal and the end of the wire from the 50 circuit that you are using, plus the 0.7 Volt drop through the silicon diode. The idea of using the same source through a small relay means the ignition box and coil see the same voltage while cranking that they would in normal run condition.
For grins, connect your better DMM to measure coil voltage. Take a reading with and without your piece connected, and see if the volts while cranking are any different. I predict that there will be virtually no difference. Now run a short heavy jumper between the battery terminal on the starter directly to the black/yellow wire, and test again while cranking. Voltage at the coil will be higher than the previous readings. Now install the relay to duplicate the bypass function but only while the starter is engaged."

My mini starter delivered only 9.1 volts to the 0.6 ohm resistor, and that led to reduced coil voltage, that prevented ignition.
Thanks for all the suggestions,
Dave