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My 85' 928 Euro arrived today (pics)

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Old 10-05-2018 | 09:36 AM
  #16  
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Replace your interior lights with the VW ones. Much better light with an led and better insulated as well.
Old 10-05-2018 | 09:51 AM
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Congrats .....looks great...nice wife to take pics for you
Old 10-05-2018 | 10:29 AM
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Ordered new switch for drivers window. I swapped the passenger switch to test, and it works perfectly.

I'll check all of the wiring on overhead interior lights this weekend, and order some LED bulbs

This car is a joy to work on so far.
Old 10-05-2018 | 08:13 PM
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Very good. Welcome.

My understanding is that you shouldn't expect any encouraging signs from the voltmeter.

Save the hatch release for last (that is, never).

There's a water pump expert near you...
Old 10-05-2018 | 11:54 PM
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Nice to see there are still a few nice ones left out there.

Want to borrow my carpet vacuum?

Old 10-06-2018 | 10:23 AM
  #21  
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Good Morning,

I spent quite a lot of time working on my car last night tackling my interior lights.

I pulled all lights out and inspected the wires.
Thankfully, all of the wires are in very good shape (almost new) with plenty of flexibility in the insulation. There were no bare, cooked, or bad connections.

What I found was someone with very poor skills reversed two of the wires on the passenger door, and hotwired the map light. When I pulled the map light out, it only had two wires. I can see that some were snipped, and it looked tampered with. I removed the sun visors and found a single red wire with electrical tape on it. I reconnected it (see pic 2).

The results have been great, but I still have some issues/questions:

-Driver, and passenger door lights and courtesy lights work perfectly with door pins.
-Rear Hatch light comes on and off with either door opened.
-Hatch solenoid now works with either button (but hatch will not pop). I can only open it with the key still.
-Map light will work in manual position only, but not with doors.
-Dome light will work in manual position, but when I put it on the door position it shorts Circuit 24 out completely.
-Opening rear hatch does not cause door lights or rear hatch light to come on.
-Clock is back to life and works perfectly.

-my gut tells me that I am missing a wire on the front map light and its grounding out behind the headliner somewhere.

-I also traced the poor interior illumination down to a bad rheostat. I cleaned it up, and lights were brighter but not as bright as if it were jumped completely. I will order a new one this week.

Lots more to tackle, but enjoying every minute
Old 10-06-2018 | 10:37 AM
  #22  
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pics
Old 10-06-2018 | 10:44 AM
  #23  
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Old 10-06-2018 | 04:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 997TTEQNY
-I also traced the poor interior illumination down to a bad rheostat. I cleaned it up, and lights were brighter but not as bright as if it were jumped completely. I will order a new one this week.

Lots more to tackle, but enjoying every minute
The dash light illumination is provided by bulbs on the back of the circuit board, with light reflected off a mirror on the bottom of the inst cluster asm. The plating on the reflection mirrors wears over time, and doesn't transmit illumination well to the front. Removal of the pod, and inst cluster is required to resolve this, and it's a bit of work. Also allows you to replace the bulbs with LED if you desire, or go with red lamps.

edit: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ent-kit-4.html forward to post 47. There are some WYAIIT tasks with the inst cluster that bear investigation so that it's a one time job with the inst cluster removal.
Old 10-06-2018 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by docmirror
The dash light illumination is provided by bulbs on the back of the circuit board, with light reflected off a mirror on the bottom of the inst cluster asm. The plating on the reflection mirrors wears over time, and doesn't transmit illumination well to the front. Removal of the pod, and inst cluster is required to resolve this, and it's a bit of work. Also allows you to replace the bulbs with LED if you desire, or go with red lamps.

edit: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ent-kit-4.html forward to post 47. There are some WYAIIT tasks with the inst cluster that bear investigation so that it's a one time job with the inst cluster removal.
thanks... I will take a look in time



so I spent some more time looking around at the wiring. There are a few wires that are disconnected and taped off. A few that are jumped off one of the main looms as well. I am fearful to plug any of these in as I dont want to start a carbeque.

PS- the last is shot of my 5 year old helping me clean up the old girl with the foam cannon and pressure washer. Most panels are original paint. There was some paint work to the drivers rear qtr (which is a shame)






Old 10-06-2018 | 07:51 PM
  #26  
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Those three overhead lights are daisy chained together with the front one between the sun visors being the first. What does the wiring look like at the center and hatch light? You will have to find those cut wires and restore them. On a positive note that fixture looks new.

I will bet that the hatch pin switch is disconnected. Flip down the tool kit and there should be a two pin connector under the latch.

You are right to hesitate before reconnecting loose plugs. I think the one by the LH is for a low octane engine tuning that is left alone.
Old 10-07-2018 | 11:13 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Majestic Moose
Those three overhead lights are daisy chained together with the front one between the sun visors being the first. What does the wiring look like at the center and hatch light? You will have to find those cut wires and restore them. On a positive note that fixture looks new.

I will bet that the hatch pin switch is disconnected. Flip down the tool kit and there should be a two pin connector under the latch.

You are right to hesitate before reconnecting loose plugs. I think the one by the LH is for a low octane engine tuning that is left alone.
Hi Moose,

Thanks for the help... I've attached a pic of the dome light below.

The hatch pin was plugged in, but completely worn out. The black part that slides was bent and broke upon removing. I ordered a new one from Pelican.

I "think" I have properly diagnosed the rear wiper issue to a bad motor as it failed my bench test. I ordered a used one from ebay, and a new switch from Suncoast as mine is worn badly.

I also got the rear hatch to pop by realigning the receiver. I will need to replace it eventually as well as the tongue, but figured I would save the budget for now.

Lastly, I was able to get the windshield washer pump going. I only have fluid coming out on the divers side... so will tend to that next.

Still need to completely remedy the overhead lights.. including new wiring once I figure out whats reversed.. time to buy a ton more of 5amp fuses. LOL





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