Air Pump Powered Crankvent
03-10-2004, 02:10 PM
#31
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Time for a Stalinist purge... 
I'm removing the air pump vac gen and reverting back to the exhaust vent only. I can't justify the HP/weight for the amount of vacuum, and it didn't help my last dyno run any more than the exhaust type.
I would still use this system to dump the crank vapors into the fender or back underneath the car, if I didn't have the exhaust option.
I would highly recommend some sort of extraction system over a plain K&N type breather.
My #1 cylinder kept growing oil crud on the spark plug, I assume from the valve guide seal. After installing the exhaust vent, and subsquently the air pump assisted vent, the crud disappeared. Also the severity of external oil leaks dropped dramatically.
If anyone wants to try it, I have two vac gens that I'll give away!
I'm removing the air pump vac gen and reverting back to the exhaust vent only. I can't justify the HP/weight for the amount of vacuum, and it didn't help my last dyno run any more than the exhaust type.
I would still use this system to dump the crank vapors into the fender or back underneath the car, if I didn't have the exhaust option.
I would highly recommend some sort of extraction system over a plain K&N type breather.
My #1 cylinder kept growing oil crud on the spark plug, I assume from the valve guide seal. After installing the exhaust vent, and subsquently the air pump assisted vent, the crud disappeared. Also the severity of external oil leaks dropped dramatically.
If anyone wants to try it, I have two vac gens that I'll give away!
03-10-2004, 02:33 PM
#32
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PorKen, could you provide a parts list ans schematic for your device. I would lile to try it on my 79. Probably a good candidate - 100+K miles with may oil leaks.
Thanks
Thanks
03-10-2004, 03:20 PM
#33
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Originally posted by Dan Perez
Negative pressure in the crankcase works against the oil pump and reduces oil pressure. The effect is linear and i'm just saying watch out and don't go overboard. I've always like a bit of vacuum in the crank using a pcv valve (which my old bugger does not have). But i'd keep it to a couple psi.
Negative pressure in the crankcase works against the oil pump and reduces oil pressure. The effect is linear and i'm just saying watch out and don't go overboard. I've always like a bit of vacuum in the crank using a pcv valve (which my old bugger does not have). But i'd keep it to a couple psi.
03-10-2004, 04:16 PM
#34
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I'm still planning to adapt my open air breather, to an exhaust vent setup.
Mine currently vents to a catch can, with a breather cap on top...
It works, and minor engine leaks under high acceleration have stopped.
But I do get those fumes and visible vapors at times, and I would like to vent to the exhaust.
I was just going to plumb my crankcase vent line into the exhaust, past the cats, so they do not get gunked up at all...
What is the purpose of your "vaccuum generator"?
Mine currently vents to a catch can, with a breather cap on top...
It works, and minor engine leaks under high acceleration have stopped.
But I do get those fumes and visible vapors at times, and I would like to vent to the exhaust.
I was just going to plumb my crankcase vent line into the exhaust, past the cats, so they do not get gunked up at all...
What is the purpose of your "vaccuum generator"?
03-10-2004, 06:12 PM
#35
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Sean79 5spd - I'm a bit rushed right now, but I will post something tonight.
bcdavis,
The 'vacuum generator' creates a draft to assist pulling the vapors out of the oil separator (on 16V cars). It pulls then push the gases farther than just having the engine push them out (for example, I was venting initially under the car, behind the passenger seat). This is assuming you are venting to the atmoshphere.
I already had tried an exhaust vent just after the muffler (in place of the cat) and it worked for venting, so this is what I am reverting to. The exhaust vent never pulled any measureable vacuum, but as you probably have noticed, the crank vapors push out pretty hard at high rpms.
...
I checked my PM's and the two freebies have been claimed! I'll get back to y'all later today.
bcdavis,
The 'vacuum generator' creates a draft to assist pulling the vapors out of the oil separator (on 16V cars). It pulls then push the gases farther than just having the engine push them out (for example, I was venting initially under the car, behind the passenger seat). This is assuming you are venting to the atmoshphere.
I already had tried an exhaust vent just after the muffler (in place of the cat) and it worked for venting, so this is what I am reverting to. The exhaust vent never pulled any measureable vacuum, but as you probably have noticed, the crank vapors push out pretty hard at high rpms.
...
I checked my PM's and the two freebies have been claimed! I'll get back to y'all later today.
08-29-2004, 12:30 AM
#36
OKay.
So I tried some garden variety Vaccum/air pump/crankcase stuff today.
I took a Mag flashlight that didn't click anymore and took it apart. I then put three heater hose adapters (female) on it. One for input from the oil breather crap, one out into the air pump itself, and one for some sort of drainback (in my faternoon version, it was a Chevron techron cleaner bottle, but this has melted and imploded from vacuum I assume while on a 10 minute run to albertsons and walmart. 30mph to 80mph, with redline shifts in 1-3. The tube was filled with coarse steel wool.
It spews oil out of the air pump outlet at the air diverter valve under the intake box. Nice. Even more smoke then before.
This is the 78. Engine was rpelaced withan 81 short block, obviously already pretty used, and now its blowing oil out that separator under load above say, 3500rpms. LOTS of oil. No biggie on needing a rebuild. I have a 4.5 ready, or could buy Wildguys 89 block and have TONS of fun. But this was a daily driver car, so I need a short term solution.
I will take off the chevron bottle to see if there is any oil in there tomarrow. I know the air pump is working since there is good vaccum by the finger test at the inlet tube on the oil fill cap/original separator, and I assume even more at higher rpms, but I almost feel like there is more drag on the engine. I thought that creating crankcase vaccum would create more power, but I think this thing is so loose now after my last 3k of 40 miles x2 each day with everything from stop and go to 100mph Southern California highway passes, that I have accelerated any dterioration that has been happening with the block in the last decade or so.
Is a long tall pipe better for a separator or a bigger barrel type thing? Did I read that the air pump would self destruct if I fed oil through it?
So I tried some garden variety Vaccum/air pump/crankcase stuff today.
I took a Mag flashlight that didn't click anymore and took it apart. I then put three heater hose adapters (female) on it. One for input from the oil breather crap, one out into the air pump itself, and one for some sort of drainback (in my faternoon version, it was a Chevron techron cleaner bottle, but this has melted and imploded from vacuum I assume while on a 10 minute run to albertsons and walmart. 30mph to 80mph, with redline shifts in 1-3. The tube was filled with coarse steel wool.
It spews oil out of the air pump outlet at the air diverter valve under the intake box. Nice. Even more smoke then before.
This is the 78. Engine was rpelaced withan 81 short block, obviously already pretty used, and now its blowing oil out that separator under load above say, 3500rpms. LOTS of oil. No biggie on needing a rebuild. I have a 4.5 ready, or could buy Wildguys 89 block and have TONS of fun. But this was a daily driver car, so I need a short term solution.
I will take off the chevron bottle to see if there is any oil in there tomarrow. I know the air pump is working since there is good vaccum by the finger test at the inlet tube on the oil fill cap/original separator, and I assume even more at higher rpms, but I almost feel like there is more drag on the engine. I thought that creating crankcase vaccum would create more power, but I think this thing is so loose now after my last 3k of 40 miles x2 each day with everything from stop and go to 100mph Southern California highway passes, that I have accelerated any dterioration that has been happening with the block in the last decade or so.
Is a long tall pipe better for a separator or a bigger barrel type thing? Did I read that the air pump would self destruct if I fed oil through it?
08-29-2004, 01:36 AM
#37
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If the vanes in the air pump are carbon, then oil will quickly destroy them. Hopefully you don't have a cat, or it'll be toast too.
Using a true air/oil separator before the pump might work, like the one GoRideSno sourced for his setup.
Using a true air/oil separator before the pump might work, like the one GoRideSno sourced for his setup.
08-29-2004, 01:42 AM
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Porken,
I'm working on a new one now. It is basicly a 3.5" tube stuffed with stainless steel pot scrubbers and the IC water routed through the center to cool it down so oil/blow by gasses condense faster. Sort of an oil separator/blow by gas condensor.
Andy K
I'm working on a new one now. It is basicly a 3.5" tube stuffed with stainless steel pot scrubbers and the IC water routed through the center to cool it down so oil/blow by gasses condense faster. Sort of an oil separator/blow by gas condensor.
Andy K
08-19-2008, 08:35 PM
#39
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Ken - Ancient history here - did you do any more development on this?
Are you still running the exhaust vacuum version? Did you consider an oil catch can - like a Provent with an oil drain port? I know you didn't have much oil loss - but it seems if you can reliably develop a little crankcase suction you can drain the oil back into the pan...? On a GTS this could be a significant benefit. Thinking of going to aftermarket cats and about your use of the defunct airpump...
Anyone else try this..
Alan
Are you still running the exhaust vacuum version? Did you consider an oil catch can - like a Provent with an oil drain port? I know you didn't have much oil loss - but it seems if you can reliably develop a little crankcase suction you can drain the oil back into the pan...? On a GTS this could be a significant benefit. Thinking of going to aftermarket cats and about your use of the defunct airpump...
Anyone else try this..
Alan
08-19-2008, 11:03 PM
#40
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When I sold the '81, I had unplugged the crank vent from the exhaust, but left the hose which dumped under the car, just past the passenger door.
On my '86, I have the crankcase lines disconnected from the intake, the cam cover ports are capped, and two hoses from the oil fill tower merge into a 1¼" hose at the front of the engine (a 'road tube').
A few months ago, I bought a pile of copper fittings with larger diameters to retry the airflow amplifier idea, using the airpump output, but it's still in the bag.
I have been tuning toward high rpm power with the 32V, and I'm getting more oil ejected, so the airflow amp might be a good way to force it through a separator.
On my '86, I have the crankcase lines disconnected from the intake, the cam cover ports are capped, and two hoses from the oil fill tower merge into a 1¼" hose at the front of the engine (a 'road tube').
A few months ago, I bought a pile of copper fittings with larger diameters to retry the airflow amplifier idea, using the airpump output, but it's still in the bag.
I have been tuning toward high rpm power with the 32V, and I'm getting more oil ejected, so the airflow amp might be a good way to force it through a separator.
08-19-2008, 11:34 PM
#41
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Ken, am traveling this week in the 86 928. Its blowing a fair bit of oil onto the underside of the hood, right in front of the 3 prong test connector, and across the tops of the intakes. Can't yet see the source. Curious if your venting system is meant to fix to that type of issue?
