Factory position of shifter front ball cup
#1
Factory position of shifter front ball cup
Has anyone ever measured the position of a factory installed front shifter cup?
Mine was screwed all the way in from a previous replacement so I know that most likely isn't correct and I know there is a method in the shop manual to adjust it to something like 89 degrees but this thing is so difficult to get to I don't want to be pulling it on and off.
I searched some pics and most seem to be about half way out.
This measurement seem like something that should be in the 928 bible.
thanks
Brian.
Mine was screwed all the way in from a previous replacement so I know that most likely isn't correct and I know there is a method in the shop manual to adjust it to something like 89 degrees but this thing is so difficult to get to I don't want to be pulling it on and off.
I searched some pics and most seem to be about half way out.
This measurement seem like something that should be in the 928 bible.
thanks
Brian.
#3
Thanks for the pic!
looks like it’s about exactly half way of the threaded section.
FYI I actually had two front ball cup joints on hand. One was an original Porsche and the other one a replica, The Porsche one had a black colored bushing in it which had a high durometer rubber feel to it and the replica had a plastic white bushing in it.
I tried for like 3 hours to snap the replica white plastic one on the ball using the ratchet strap method with no luck.
I switched to the factory Porsche one and it was installed in like 5 minutes.
My advice is don’t bother with the cheap replica one with the white plastic bushing or you will be hating life...
Brian.
looks like it’s about exactly half way of the threaded section.
FYI I actually had two front ball cup joints on hand. One was an original Porsche and the other one a replica, The Porsche one had a black colored bushing in it which had a high durometer rubber feel to it and the replica had a plastic white bushing in it.
I tried for like 3 hours to snap the replica white plastic one on the ball using the ratchet strap method with no luck.
I switched to the factory Porsche one and it was installed in like 5 minutes.
My advice is don’t bother with the cheap replica one with the white plastic bushing or you will be hating life...
Brian.
#5
I don’t have any experience with that device but understanding it has to be adjusted once it’s installed is concerning. This is just my opinion based on how much room there is in that area.
#6
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#8
I advise to service the shifter ball cup and the motor mounts at the same time. Once the old motor mounts are removed, you can lower the engine and create much more room between the shifter ball cup and the body making it much easier to install.
Another way to go is to drop the torque tube, then replace the rear shift coupler, the shifter and its bushings, and the shifter ball cup all at once. That also works well.
When the rear shift coupler is replaced with our Precision Shifter Coupler, the front replaced with our Precision Shifter Ball Cup, and a Short-Shifter is installed with new bushings, all the slop is gone and the shifts become very nice. You can feel the detents in the transmission, and how each shift clicks into place. Its really nice. Sorry for the shameless ad, just wanted you to know that the end is worth all the effort.
Another way to go is to drop the torque tube, then replace the rear shift coupler, the shifter and its bushings, and the shifter ball cup all at once. That also works well.
When the rear shift coupler is replaced with our Precision Shifter Coupler, the front replaced with our Precision Shifter Ball Cup, and a Short-Shifter is installed with new bushings, all the slop is gone and the shifts become very nice. You can feel the detents in the transmission, and how each shift clicks into place. Its really nice. Sorry for the shameless ad, just wanted you to know that the end is worth all the effort.
#9
As for the white vs black bushing. All of the original bushings and replacements I've purchased have been white.
#10
It is very good, but extremely difficult to install even with the engine out.
#11
Part of the difficulty is adjusting. I did not know at the time that I had to remove some of the torque tube insulation by the shifter in order to make room for the final adjustment.
So NO, it is NOT EASY, even with the engine out, the first time thru. I hope I NEVER have to touch it again...
#13
#15
Correct measurement is done by angle of the selector lever. WSM has all the details and there are some very old threads about it in the archives. How many threads are visible in adjustment is not important and not correct way to do it.